The Wayward Kitchen & Cocktails replaces Crickets in Sayville

For nearly four decades, Crickets sustained multiple generations of Sayville locals with popovers, pints and toasty English-pub vibes. When owner Peter Moreno retired last summer, the laments over Crickets’ closure resounded across social media and the bartops of other nearby restaurants.

A year on, and the pub’s successor has debuted in the heart of downtown. In late August, The Wayward Kitchen & Cocktails opened in the same space sporting a markedly more open vibe and modern lines, with floor-to-ceiling windows, a swooping bar, bold tiling, and a rota of both contemporary touches — such as frosted globe lamps  — and warming ones, such as a fireplace.  Green leather booths seem to be an homage to Crickets, and seating is scattered across multiple spaces.

Behind The Wayward’s bar are eight taps and a lineup of wines, spiked seltzers and $12 cocktails that include a pumpkin espresso martini and a pear-pomegranate margarita. Food-wise, The Wayward’s retooled pub food touches on mac-and-cheese; French onion soup; iceberg wedge salads; a two-patty, cheddar-topped smash burger; butternut squash ravioli and hangar steak. Apps, salads and sandwiches fall mostly between $10 and $18, while larger plates top out at $28. Desserts, including a chipwich, are $6 to $8, and in another homage to Crickets, there are still popovers on the menu ($4 for two), these particular ones laced with Parmesan and thyme.

The Wayward’s hours seem to be in flux, but the restaurant is assuredly open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday.

The Wayward Kitchen & Cocktails, 98 Main St., Sayville; 631-567-6345, thewaywardsayville.com