Nepali eatery, While in Kathmandu, opens in Glen Cove

Nepali momos, or dumplings, are back on Long Island: While In Kathmandu has opened in Glen Cove, serving Nepali staples that have been hard to come by since Everest Himalayan Cuisine closed in Bellmore two years ago.

Momos ($14 to $17) here are filled with chicken, shrimp, water buffalo meat or vegetable; all are available steamed, fried or in a creamy, tomato-based broth (jhol momo). You’ll also find sekua, Nepali-style grilled skewers (chicken, goat or shrimp, $28 to $22) that are served on a bed of chiura which, owner Bikash Kharel explained, is rice that has been beaten flat and then dried to preserve it.

"In Nepal," he explained, "not everyone has the ability to store rice without it going bad. When treated this way, it lasts longer."

Kharel is a great source of information about Nepali food. You may not expect to find fish on the menu — mountainous Nepal being more than 600 miles from the Indian Ocean — but Kharel said freshwater fish is very popular here, especially in the town of Malekhu where the local specialty Malekhu macha (fried whole fish) is served "at every pit stop." Here, an order of two is $9.99.

Some of Kharel’s dishes split the difference between Nepali street foods and those of other nations. "It’s traditional, with a twist," he said, of the masala fries, masala wings, "not tacos" made with choila (spiced) chicken or jackfruit enfolded in a freshly made roti and garlic naan served with hummus. He also tries his hand at Nepali-inflected buffalo burgers and fried chicken sandwiches.

While In Kathmandu, which takes over the former Tava, is decorated with bold murals — Kharel studied graphic design in college. Unusual for a South Asian restaurant, it has a full bar where you can sample three Nepali beers while you throw back the momos.

The Glen Cove eatery is Kharel’s second location; the original opened in 2017 in Ridgewood, Queens. Although he is from Chitwan, about 110 miles west of Kathmandu, he named the restaurant for the country’s better-known capital. Back in Nepal, his father was a journalist who fled with his family to New York and opened a Nepali-Indian restaurant in Maspeth, Queens where Kharel started working in 2013. In Glen Cove Kharel is joined by his brother, Parash Kharel, and cousin, Bipin Bhatta.

It was confidence in Nepal’s culinary heritage and his own ability to popularize it that inspired him to open on Long Island. "I think people who haven’t had Nepali food are really going to love it."

While in Kathmandu, 61 Glen St., Glen Cove, 516-277-1684, whileinkathmanduglencove.com. Open Wednesday to Monday 12:30 to 9:30 p.m., closed Tuesday.