Your Mother's House in New Hyde Park: TV plus food

Cast your eyes anywhere around Your Mother’s House Kitchen & Bar, a sprawling American sports pub in New Hyde Park, and you’ll be looking at a TV screen. The king of them all, a 240-inch projector high-definition screen, dominates one wall, surrounded by smaller screens. If there’s a televised game you’re out for, chances are it’s playing here.

Finding a consistently satisfying meal, though, proved more challenging on a recent visit. A warm baked pretzel ($5.95), served with beer mustard, turned out to have a reheated taste, and instead of being dotted with salt, it had a kind of melted-on glaze. Our waitress said the restaurant will not cook a burger medium-rare but will do it so it has a small amount of pink. That's the way I requested my cheeseburger ($9.99), but the one I got had been grilled to grayness. Even so, it had a nice beefy flavor and came on a very good — and nicely proportioned — brioche bun. Accompanying fries, described as homemade and coated with herbs and Parmesan, turned out to be pale, previously frozen oblongs pebbled with salt. And an ahi tuna “burger” ($14.99) lacked both flavor and its promised topping of wasabi mayonnaise.

The high point of the meal: Between appetizer and main course, a basket of moist, loose-textured cornbread was delivered. “The owner's father baked this,” the waitress said.

Also on the menu: a Cobb salad ($14.99), a Buffalo chicken sandwich ($11.99) and a bacon ranch pizza ($10.99).

Your Mother's House Kitchen & Bar is at 2349 Jericho Tpke., Garden City Park, 516-493-9030.

Cheeseburger and fries at Your Mother's House