Best things to do in Hartford, Connecticut
Sol LeWitt’s Wall Drawing #1131: Whirls and twirls at the Wadsworth Atheneum in Hartford. Credit: /Jessica Hill
Long recognized as the nation's insurance capital and cradle of firearms — Colt got its start here in 1855 — Hartford is known for a few other things these days: First-rate theaters, the Mark Twain house, a symphony orchestra, and a burgeoning restaurant scene alongside a bustling arts one. This capital city on the Connecticut River even has a decent minor-league baseball team with a wonderfully self-deprecating name (the Yard Goats).
But Hartford as a travel destination in its own right?
"Hartford is capable of surprising people," admits Colin McEnroe, Hartford native and the city's unofficial ambassador to the rest of America, as host of his popular eponymous radio show from Connecticut Public Radio headquarters on Farmington Avenue in West Hartford for the past 15 years.
But, he adds, "improvisation doesn't come easily around here."
Why? "That's something I've been asked a lot over 40 years. There's always the 'it's between Boston and New York' thing, but there's something in the culture here too. It's that Connecticut-style 'land of steady habits' and Hartford is the epitome of this."
Nevertheless, change has indeed finally come to this city of steady habits, he says. Hartford has an "incredible jazz" heritage and a vibrant culinary scene, some of it centered just a couple miles west of his studio. Leading Broadway directors like Darko Tresnjak and Michael Wilson have mounted ambitious stage productions here. And the city's gorgeous parks are filled with music festivals through the summer, he says.
Hartford — yes Hartford — has at last arrived as a true travel destination. Even better, this is an easy destination for Long Islanders to get to (roughly two hour drive).
When Twain first visited in 1868, he famously wrote," Of all the beautiful towns it has been my fortune to see, this is the chief." By the time he moved here in 1871, Hartford was the wealthiest city on a per-capita basis in the United States. (J. Pierpont Morgan is from there and so is another highborn luminary, Katharine Hepburn)
Hartford was devastated when the NHL Whalers left town in 1997, but quickly regrouped by adding a minor-league hockey franchise (Rangers farm team the Wolf Pack) and soccer one (Hartford Athletic, the state's only pro soccer team.) Those amazin' Hartford Yard Goats arrived in 2017.
So Hartford is resilient and — yes — a bona fide travel destination too.
Here are the 11 places to visit — in order — once you get here:
Top things to do and explore
Top things to do and explore
Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art
600 Main St., Hartford
The Morgan Great Hall inside the Wadsworth Atheneum features European and American works from the 16th through 19th centuries. Credit: /Jessica Hill
The Atheneum, the country's oldest art museum (founded 1842), is typically ranked as one of its best too. There are about 50,000 works of art here (Caravaggio's "The Ecstacy of St. Francis" " among the most famous of them), William Holman Hunt's "The Lady of Shalott" another. American art is another "Wads" speciality. You truly could spend an entire day here, probably longer.
MORE INFO 860-278-2670, thewadsworth.org
The Mark Twain House & Museum
351 Farmington Ave., Hartford
The Mark Twain House and Museum in Hartford. Credit: /Jessica Hill
Hartford's most famous attraction was built by its most famous resident, where he lived from 1874 to 1891. Twain loved it here at "Nook Farm," with his esteemed neighbors just across the lawn (Harriet Beecher Stowe). Tragedy and loss forced Twain from Hartford, then America. An air of melancholy still haunts this beautiful High Victorian Gothic.
MORE INFO 860-247-0998, marktwainhouse.org
Connecticut Science Center
250 Columbus Blvd., Hartford
"The Science Behind Pixar" exhib features more than 50 interactive elements, focusing on different stages of the filmmaking process at the Connecticut Science Center. Credit: /Jessica Hill
This remarkable science museum — nine stories high, looming over the Connecticut River — celebrates a 15th anniversary this June. Boasting "165 hands-on exhibits, a state-of-the-art 3D digital theater, four educational labs, plus daily programs and events," one of this year's anniversary events (March 1 through Sept. 1) is the "Science Behind Pixar. "
MORE INFO 860-724-3623, ctsciencecenter.org
Elizabeth Park Conservancy
1561 Asylum Ave., West Hartford
West Hartford — not even a mile from downtown Hartford — has its own treasures, and this is certainly one. Within Elizabeth Park (102 acres) there are various seed beds devoted to dahlias, herbs, irises and perennials, but the Heritage Rose Garden may be the jewel in this generous crown. You could spend the better part of a summer day wandering the glories of the EPC.
MORE INFO 860-231-8823, elizabethparkct.org
Parkville Market and Real Arts Way
1400 Park St., Hartford
A major Hartford attraction — west of I-84 and downtown — the Parkville Market has 22 restaurants, three bars, live entertainment, salsa lessons, trivia nights, and more. The food choices are certainly diverse, or as Parkville maintains, "from poke to paella and birria to BBQ" and there's an evocatively named brewery too (Dead Language Beer Project). Parkville's an old mixed-use industrial/residential neighborhood that has drawn many of Hartford's artists to the once abandoned factories, hence another Hartford landmark, Real Art Ways, which is just around the corner from the Market, and occupies the old Underwood typewriter factory -- and is about to undergo an expansion (there's only a small gallery space here now.) You'll need an Uber to get to both.
MORE INFO 860-232-1006, parkvillemarket.com
Connecticut State Capitol
210 Capitol Ave., Hartford
The Connecticut State Capitol building in Hartford. Credit: /Jessica Hill
This magnificent Capitol building merits a visit for a few reasons. Foremost, it's free (there are self-guided and group tours.) Built in 1878, this High Victorian Gothic-style state house is an ornate edifice of marble inlay and a gold-plated dome, with striking views around every corner (and overhead.) But for you walkers, the state house is a good place to orient yourself to the rest of the city. It overlooks Bushnell Park to the north, while the Bushnell Performing Arts Center — one of several theaters — is just to the south. The Museum of Connecticut History (also free) is across the street (231 Capitol), with exhibitions devoted to local luminaries like Twain, Samuel Colt and Elisha Root who revolutionized gun manufacturing.
MORE INFO 860-240-0222, portal.ct.gov
Bushnell Park
Bushnell Park, Hartford
Bushnell Park in Hartford offers a full line-up of events this summer. Credit: Getty Images/kickstand
Heart and soul of Hartford, this magnificent urban park which opened in 1868 is run by the Bushnell Park Conservancy that orchestrates dozens of events, most of them during the summer (the Park's currently closed for "winter maintenance," but reopens shortly.) Bushnell's summer schedule is packed with concerts, including the Greater Hartford Festival of Jazz (July 18-20). There's even free yoga here, starting in April. Some of the free stuff include a tour of the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Arch at the park's entrance.
MORE INFO 860-232-6710, bushnellpark.org
Black-Eyed Sally's Southern Kitchen & Bar
350 Asylum St., Hartford
Fried chicken with mac 'n cheese and collard greens at Black-Eyed Sally's Southern Kitchen & Bar. Credit: /Jessica Hill
There are plenty of good restaurants in Hartford, but this New Orleans'-style Cajun one in a self-described Urban Juke Joint setting may be the closest thing this city has to a club dedicated to Hartford's rich jazz heritage, says McEnroe. There's live music (and a lot of jazz) Wednesday through Saturday nights at this 30-year-old Hartford institution. That food, meanwhile, is terrific.
MORE INFO 860-278-7427, blackeyedsallys.com
West Hartford Food District
983 Farmington Ave., West Hartford
Two miles due west of the Twain House, on Farmington Avenue, just past Trout Brook Drive, the Food District — also known as West Hartford Center — is a cluster of some of the best restaurants in the city. They include Terva (upscale Italian), Zohara Mediterranian, Avert Brasseries, Union Kitchen and Le Mazet. There are probably 20 restaurants in this immediate vicinity alone. For foodies, it's the place to be and go.
MORE INFO whartfordcenter.com
Hartford Yard Goats
1214 Main St., Hartford
A Hartford Yard Goat flag bearer runs across the field at the beginning of the game against the Reading Fightin Phils at Dunkin Park. Credit: Denver Post via Getty Images/Andy Cross/MediaNews Group/The Denver Post via Getty Images
A farm team to the Colorado Rockies, Hartford's beloved Goats are a big attraction in town, and one reason is all the theme nights (Harry Potter), fireworks (frequent during the summer), and giveaways. Check here for the schedule. The team plays at Dunkin' Park, a quick walk from downtown.
MORE INFO 860-246-4628, milb.com/hartford
The Old State House
800 Main St., Hartford
Just up the street from the Science Museum is this other genuine Connecticut landmark, built in 1796. Part of the "Amistad" trial was held here, and the Hartford Convention too (a major event during the War of 1812.) It's all free, and so is the third-floor museum, "The Museum of Natural and Other Curiosities." Oh, yes, and there's this: It may be haunted (and was the subject of a "Ghost Hunters" episode.)
MORE INFO 860-240-5340, wp.cga.ct.gov
Getting there
Getting there
Train passengers walk through Moynihan Train Hall at Penn Station. Credit: Craig Ruttle
The drive from Nassau County is about two and half hours on a good day, or about 2 hours and 40 minutes from Massapequa. The other option is the Port Jefferson ferry, which is $74 (peak) one way. The drive to Hartford is under an hour.
There are two train options. First, Amtrak from Penn Station to Hartford starts around $23 one way (book in advance). From Central Madison, the first leg (Metro North) to New Haven is about two hours, with ticket prices beginning at $17. From New Haven, you then pick up the Hartford Line ($8.25 one way,) which gets you to Hartford in just under an hour.
There's one big advantage to the train. The city's Romanesque-style Hartford Union Station drops passengers off close to downtown, and most of the attractions here (with one or two exceptions) are easily within walking distance.
Where to stay
Where to stay
There are plenty of chain hotels in the surrounding suburbs, like South Windsor, Windsor Locks and Rocky Hill. If you want to stay in the city proper, there are five hotels downtown — The Capitol, Doubletree Hilton, Residence Inn, Marriott and the Goodwin. I've stayed at the Marriott before (a particularly nice one) but the Goodwin — from 1881, with the rust-colored bright Queen Anne terra-cotta facade, on Asylum Street — is something special indeed. (It's also pricey, so you'll certainly want to check rates first.) The Goodwin is also just a quick walk from Union Station, which is served by Amtrak and the Hartford Line.
