High-stakes Las Vegas dining tables
The Paella Grill at Jaleo, a restaurant managed by chef José Andrés at The Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas. (Jan. 5, 2011) Credit: The Cosmopolitan Hotel of Las Vegas
Everything in boom-and-bust Las Vegas is a gamble. But the odds for a jackpot meal have shifted in your favor.
Star chefs began to align in the desert more than a decade ago. Now, with a galaxy of openings, Sin City has enough to turn gluttony into one of the town's new and improved vices. Almost as important, not all require high-roller budgets.
Somewhere, Bugsy Siegel must be smiling.
HEADLINERS
The latest lineup includes restaurants from "Molto" Mario Batali and José Andrés, the "Made in Spain" champion who was just honored as "outstanding chef" in the nation by the James Beard Foundation.
There are new ventures from respected Vegas regulars Julian Serrano, whose Picasso at Bellagio already ranks among the city's best; Hubert Keller, whose repertoire goes from caviar to cheeseburgers; and Wolfgang Puck, the avatar of high-profile chefdom.
SPREADING THE NEWS
Season the mix with New York names: sushi master Masayoshi Takayama of Masa (and now Vegas' Bar Masa); Sirio Maccioni, ringmaster of Le Cirque (and Vegas' Sirio);
Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Jean Georges (and Vegas' Jean Georges Steakhouse), Scott Conant of Scarpetta (in Las Vegas as well as New York City); ex-Oceana chef Rick Moonen (with RM Seafood); plus "Top Chef" chief judge Tom Colicchio of Craftsteak (with more Craftsteak).
And if you can't get into Rao's in East Harlem for some of Uncle Vincent's famous lemon chicken, there's a branch at Caesars Palace.
MICHELIN MEN
To this citywide foodfest, add Twist by Pierre Gagnaire. The great French chef recently joined Guy Savoy, Joël Robuchon and Alain Ducasse, forming a quartet of legendary three-star Michelin chefs with places in the sun as well as in Paris.
American chef Thomas Keller, who was awarded three stars each for The French Laundry in Napa Valley and Per Se in Manhattan, and one star for his bistro Bouchon in Napa, also has a Bouchon branch here. For the record, Masa in Manhattan holds a three-star rating, too.
VEGAS VETS
They all follow American celebrity chefs, from Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay and Todd English to Charlie Palmer, Michael Mina and Bradley Ogden, who've made their own imprints in the sand.
WHAT TO DO
You'll find it easy to make a reservation, online through either the restaurant or hotel's Web site or Open Table; by phone; or through your hotel concierge. It pays to do so a few days in advance of your arrival. A lot of the new restaurants already draw crowds as regularly as the Bellagio water show.
Here are the chefs' tables where you should place your bets:
JALEO
WHO José Andrés
WHY Tapas, the Spanish snacks, define buoyant Jaleo. Andrés' restaurants include Jaleo in Washington, D.C., and é in Vegas, the molecular-cuisine boutique restaurant. Jaleo has broader appeal -- and more seats. Just in case: ChinaPoblano, an East-West union of Chinese and Mexican, also under Andrés.
WHERE Jaleo is an anchor in the glittery variation on a food court at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas hotel (cosmopolitanlasvegas.com), in the new CityCenter complex, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-698-7950.
WHAT Olives with piquillo, anchovy and knockout "liquid olives," an homage to Spanish chef Ferrán Adrià; cured ham Ibérico de bellota Fermin; toasted tomato bread; salt-cod fritters. Dinner: $30 to $75.
CARNEVINO, B&B
WHY Babbo, Del Posto, Lupa, Otto and Eataly are Batali's current New York landmarks. In Las Vegas, his stamp identifies the Italian take on steakhouses, at Carnevino, and the lively Italian choices at B&B Ristorante (as in Batali and Joseph Bastianich, son of Lidia).
WHERE Carnevino is in The Palazzo (palazzo.com), 3325 Las Vegas Blvd., 702-789-4141; B&B, in The Venetian (venetian.com), 3355 Las Vegas Blvd.; 702-266-9977.
WHAT At Carnevino: steak tartare, tuna crudo, gnocchi Bolognese, braised-duck cannelloni; Florentine-style porterhouse. Creative sauces, too. At B&B: beef-cheek ravioli and spicy calamari "lifeguard style"; and Barolo-braised beef and the pasta tasting menu. Dinner at both: $60 to $100 and up.
TWIST
WHY The only restaurant in the United States where you'll experience Gagnaire's rarefied cuisine. Among the stars, he's a supernova. If you win big, celebrate here.
WHERE On the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel (mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas/dining/twist) at CityCenter, 3752 Las Vegas Blvd.; 702-590-3172. Dramatic views, floor-to-ceiling windows.
WHAT In a sharp setting that's more American than French, there are pre-theater, a la carte and extraordinary, multicourse tasting menus. All creative, bold, international, playful "twists." $100 to $300 and up.
BURGER BAR
WHO Hubert Keller
WHY Enjoy a haute chef's whimsy at this restaurant devoted to the patty in countless forms. Keller ("Secrets of a Chef") has Burger Bars in St. Louis and San Francisco, where his landmark Fleur de Lys continues to bloom.
WHERE In the Mandalay Bay hotel (mandalaybay.com), 3930 Las Vegas Blvd.; 702-632-9364. You won't need a reservation. Keller also operates Fleur, a French-New American indulgence at the same hotel.
WHAT Black Angus beef, American-style Kobe beef, bison, turkey, vegetarian; toppings from brown gravy to black truffle, pineapple to pesto. $25 to $30 and up; Kobe burger with foie gras and truffles doubles it.
CUT
WHY One of the first star chefs, Puck made Spago the celebrity canteen of Beverly Hills, launched the smoked-salmon pizza, and became a brand. In Las Vegas, his name attaches to a branch of Spago and of Postrio, to Trattoria del Lupo, and his latest, CUT.
WHERE CUT, an ambitiously updated steakhouse, is at The Palazzo hotel (palazzo.com). 702-607-6300.
WHAT Artisanal steaks, sourced from around the country and abroad, including Wagyu, Kobe-style, American prime. There's a sirloin tasting, bone-marrow flan, steak tartare, Kobe sliders, Kurobuta pork, pan-roasted Maine lobster, a potato tarte Tatin, much more. Dinner: $100-plus.
JULIAN SERRANO
WHO Julian Serrano
WHY Vivid versions of new-style tapas, seviches and Spanish seafood highlight Serrano's bustling namesake restaurant. Also, consider it a way to sample his inventiveness in a setting more casual and less expensive than Picasso (which, incidentally, is decorated with the artist's work).
WHERE The spirited spot is at casino level in the ARIA Resort & Casino (arialasvegas.com) in the CityCenter complex on the Strip; 702-590-8520.
WHAT Lobster-"molecular" pineapple skewer; ahi tuna tempura with wasabi foam; tuna-tartare cones; white asparagus with mango and mayonnaise foam; paellas; risotto; charcuterie. $30 to $75.
BAR MASA, SHABOO
WHO Masayoshi Takayama
WHY His dizzyingly costly, multi-starred Manhattan restaurant, Masa at Time Warner Center, makes sushi buffs think the Rapture has come.
WHERE Bar Masa at the ARIA hotel, 877-230-2742. Or, for a chef's choice meal closer to what you find at Masa in New York, there's Shaboo, also in the ARIA.
WHAT Spicy "dancing" shrimp, Masa "toro toro," black cod with daikon, sushi rolls, scallop seviche, sushi and sashimi. At Bar Masa, average check is $115; at Shaboo, it starts at $300 a person.
And, for a different kind of star, there's Beso steakhouse at CityCenter. It's owned by Eva Longoria.
