In Waterford, a crystal-themed tour

Waterford Crystal is renowned for its sparkle -- and lately the city it's named for lives up to that description.

But Waterford, in Ireland's sunny southeast (sunny being a relative concept in Ireland), hasn't always had it easy. The city is often passed over by tourists in favor of Dublin's nightlife or the emerald-green seaside hills of Kerry. And two years ago, the crystal factory shut down, leaving Waterford without its most famous attraction.

Then last year, the Waterford Crystal-themed tourist center reopened. Now visitors can again explore Waterford Crystal's history and the art of crystal-making and continue on to other attractions within the town.

ART OF CRYSTAL

House of Waterford allows visitors to tour a new production facility, where they can see master craftsmen at work. The new location, which produces high-end pieces and has crystal for sale in an expansive showroom, is far more central than the previous factory in Kilbarry. From molds to glassblowing and sculpting, visitors see all the stages of crystal-making as the furnaces burn before their eyes and pieces take shape, emerging from hot glass to meticulously engraved collectibles. Visitors can even don goggles and smash some crystal, an opportunity eagerly grabbed by the children on my tour, as guides discuss the fate of flawed pieces. Also on view are replicas of some of Waterford Crystal's work, from a Super Bowl trophy to a Sept. 11 memorial.

The experience is similar to the old factory tour but spiced up with more multimedia. It marks the continuation of a brand that has made its home in Waterford since 1783.

A GRAND CASTLE

After seeing the crystal center, visitors may continue the pursuit of all things luxurious at Waterford Castle, situated on its own island, with access by ferry. The secluded castle dates back centuries but has been converted into a four-star resort with 19 elegant rooms, including fixtures such as freestanding bathtubs with carved, ornate legs.

If you prefer more modern accommodations on the island, the 320-acre property also offers three- and four-bedroom lodges. A restaurant offers afternoon tea and gourmet meals, and there is an 18-hole golf course designed by former Ryder Cup player Des Smyth.

HURLING

Another way to experience Waterford is to get a taste of hurling, a 2,000-year-old, lightning-fast Irish field sport similar to field hockey, using a ball and flat, curved wooden sticks called hurleys. It's especially popular in counties Tipperary, Waterford and Kilkenny. Though it's an all-amateur sport, many loyal fans travel to away games and matches in Dublin, and there is no greater buzz in Waterford City than when the county team plays. National league games are played from winter until April, and All-Ireland qualifying matches follow 'til the end of September.

The city comes alive in a sea of Waterford blue-and-white jerseys, with pubs such as Alfie Hale's drawing particularly big hurling crowds shouting "Up the Deise" (pronounced day-shuh), as Waterford is known as An Deise in Irish.

Waterford is also home to several shops where hurleys are still made. Hurley-maker Frank Murphy learned the craft from teachers and relatives, meticulously fashioning the hurleys from wood such as ash and often personalizing them for new owners.

Other hurley-makers include Peter Flanagan, who is newer to the trade but comes from a carpentry background. It's worth a visit to their home workshops for a chat and a look at the process.

And while a hurley from Waterford won't sparkle like a crystal bowl, it's a worthy souvenir of your visit -- expect to spend up to about $42.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Waterford is about 115 miles from Dublin. The city has its own airport.

HOUSE OF WATERFORD, waterfordvisitorcentre.com

ADMISSION: About $18, open daily March-October, with factory tours 9 a.m.-4:15 p.m.

WATERFORD CASTLE, waterfordcastle.com

RATES: Overnight lodging ranges from about $95 to more than $300, with some rates per person and others by the room. Dinner costs about $90 a person.