From Amsterdam to Paris: Tips and rules for driving through Europe
Dinant, a medieval town in Wallonia, Belgium. Credit: For The Washington Post/Philippe Brault / Agence VU
One of the first words you should learn in France or Belgium is “grève,” the French word for “strike,” because you’ll often hear it in the local news.
During the past few years, strikes have consistently interrupted European airlines and rail services. Instead of being vulnerable to tricky cross country, cross-country skiing connections, travelers should consider renting a car. That’s even more appropriate if you’re in a small group of people who enjoy going off the beaten path.
As Americans head to Europe over the summer, many will try to fit several countries into an itinerary. A road trip allows you more flexibility and access to places that are harder to connect by rail or plane. Even for locals, traveling by car can be a fun alternative.
“I’m all about driving, flexibility, and accessibility,” says Jane Bertch, the founder of the Paris-based cooking school La Cuisine Paris and author of “The French Ingredient.” “Stay off the highways and stop by small villages for lunch and shopping. I love buying food and wine as souvenirs, and not having to deal with baggage on a train or plane is a plus.”
If you’re looking for a trip that covers three countries in 10 to 12 days, here is an itinerary below:
Renting a car in Europe
If you’re used to driving in the United States, driving in Europe may seem more relaxed. Road rules are mostly the same in continental Europe — except the United Kingdom and Ireland, where you drive on the left side.
Keep in mind that the speed limits are in kilometers per hour, not miles. The easiest way to figure it out is to multiply the number by .60; it’s .62, to be exact, but you should go with the easier math to avoid speeding tickets.. The Netherlands and Belgium have speed cameras that capture the average speed of a trip rather than one moment on the road.
Renting a car is straightforward in Western Europe. Most of the big brands in the United States — Hertz, Budget, Avis, Enterprise — are available at most large airports.
As for driving licenses, I’ve rented cars from Austria to Greece and have never been asked for an International Driving Permit. If you’re pulled over, however, having one could save you a ticket. They’re only $20 with an easy application process via AAA.
Roads and parking spots are often much smaller in most of Europe than in the United States, so be careful about how large of a car you rent. Also, if you can’t drive a manual, specify an automatic car in your booking, as manual vehicles are still pretty standard across Europe.
Electric vehicles are more common in Western Europe than in the United States, and there are plenty of charging stations along the highways, parking garages and most urban neighborhoods. If you choose to rent an electric car, plan your stops around your charging time. Use apps like PlugShare to find charging stations, which display availability and the type of chargers supported.
Another tip is to pay for parking in advance when visiting the big cities.
Start from Amsterdam
After a few days strolling along the city’s quaint canals and admiring the Dutch masters at the Rijksmuseum, pick up your rental car at Schiphol Airport and head south to Brussels, which should take less than three hours.
Stop in Gouda, Netherlands
Kaaswinkeltje is the oldest shop in the city center of Gouda and has specialized in farmhouse cheeses for generations in the Netherlands. The cheese is made from raw milk on farms around Gouda. Credit: For The Washington Post/Philippe Brault / Agence VU
Gouda is known for its cheese but also for its history; the city is more than 750 years old. The charming city center, warm stroopwafels, and enticing cheese present a more laid-back side to Holland without the mass tourism of Amsterdam’s city center.
Stop in Brussels
The Grand Place of Brussels. Credit: For The Washington Post/Philippe Brault / Agence VU
Brussels is known for its art nouveau architecture, gastronomy and, of course, chocolates.
A stop at the Grand-Place (where you can also find several parking garages) is a must. Afterward, walk to the Sablon, known for its art galleries, chocolate shops and weekend antique market.
With your car parked, explore the city by metro, tram or bus and head to Saint-Gilles and Ixelles. These local favorite neighborhoods are teeming with cozy cafes and a bustling restaurant scene. You can also explore global cuisines ranging from Vietnamese to Congolese cuisine, reflecting the city’s diverse population.
Stop in Dinant, Belgium
Make some time for the charming, well-preserved medieval city in Wallonia in southern Belgium. Take a boat ride along the Meuse River with a view of the rolling hills of the Ardennes, go for a tour of the Citadel of Dinant, and stock up on chocolates and artisanal local cheeses.
Stop in Reims, France
It takes less than three hours to drive from Brussels to the Champagne region. Make your base at Reims, where you can walk or take public transportation via bus or tram to many Champagne producers.
Having a car will allow you to explore other picturesque Champagne-producing towns like Aÿ-Champagne, Bouzy and Avize, as many of these small towns either don’t have train stations or only have limited schedules.. Just make sure someone agrees to be a designated driver.
Stop in Lyon, France
Known as the gastronomic capital of France, Lyon, with its cozy taverns known as Bouchon Lyonnaise, serving local fare such as pates and sausage-stuffed brioche and Cote du Rhone wines, has an entirely different feel than Paris with a less touristy vibe and restaurants and bars catering to the home crowd.
Lovers of French cuisine should include a stop to the Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, a food fall with several restaurants, for oyster shuckers, decadent cheeses, charcuterie and wine.
For stunning city views, catch a funicular to the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Stop in Dijon, France
Known for its mustard, Burgundy’s capital has a picturesque city center worth a stop. With its cobblestone streets and Gothic architecture, it’s a good place for a petit pause.
Stop in Paris
The Saint Germain des Prés district in Paris, France. Credit: For The Washington Post/Philippe Brault / Agence VU
You could return your rental car to Lyon and take the TGV (fast train) to Paris, which will take two hours. But if you’re looking for more adventure, drive back to Paris and head to Auxerre, a small city in the Burgundy region, for a petit pause.
Also, take advantage of the car to go to landmarks on the outskirts of Paris, like Versailles or Parc du Bois, with a bit more ease.
