Visiting Civil War sites

It was the bloodiest and most destructive four years in American history. More than 620,000 lives were lost and the cost to the young nation's coffers has been estimated at today's equivalent of about $188 billion. From April of 1861 to April 1865, there was nothing united about the United States, and emotional scars linger to this day.

We continue to look back upon the Civil War as one of the most compelling events in American history. One reason is that we personally didn't have to live through it. Another: A stronger nation eventually emerged.

To be sure, there was much hypocrisy on both sides. But there was also bravery and nobility, especially on the field of battle. And the Union was preserved.

MARKING THE ANNIVERSARY

For the next four years, America will be commemorating the 150th anniversary of the war that forced a rebellious South, unwilling to accept the election of Abraham Lincoln, back into the fold. There will be exhibits, retrospectives and re-enactments. Rather than one continuous commemoration, there will be hundreds of separate events, most of them rolling up the East Coast in keeping with the chronological sequence of the war.

This month, for example, there is a commemoration of the outbreak of hostilities in Charleston Harbor. This summer, the focus shifts to suburban Washington, D.C., site of the first major land battle. Next year the sesquicentennial spotlight will shine brightest in Virginia, Shiloh, Tenn., and Antietam, Md., with Gettysburg, Pa., and Vicksburg, Miss., taking their turns in 2013.

But you don't need to wait until the actual anniversary to visit a specific Civil War site. The looming milestone prompted several destinations to spruce up their facilities early.

Here's a look at what to expect at popular war sites along the East Coast.

BULL RUN (MANASSAS), VA.

History lesson

The Battle of Bull Run pitted roughly equal numbers of equally raw Union and Confederate recruits against each other in a 10-hour battle on July 21, 1861, that laid to rest both sides' hopes for a quick end to the war. What could have been a rout by the Union was turned into a panicked Union retreat by the heroic stand of Confederate Gen. Thomas E. Jackson, who earned his nickname "Stonewall" there. Thirteen months later, the armies, now under different commanders, squared off again in the same area with significantly deadlier consequences.

What to see

The battlefield itself is operated by the National Park Service, which will be hosting a series of special tours, living history and weapon demonstrations, lectures, concerts and even a commemorative service July 21-24 ($3 ages 16 and up, nps.gov/mana).

A 2½-hour re-enactment of the battle, staged by more than 10,000 authentically dressed and outfitted re-enactors, will take place at Pageland Farm at 9:30 a.m. July 23 and 24. Standing room tickets are $24 ($15 ages 6-12), with bleacher seating $31-$40 (manassasbullrun.com).

The same weekend, the City of Manassas is sponsoring a weekend-long, do-it-yourself tour of seven living-history sites associated with the battle, including two forts, a plantation, a cemetery and a museum ($20, manassascivilwar.org).

CHARLESTON, S.C.

History lesson

The first shot of the war was fired at 4:30 a.m. April 12, 1861 -- a signal mortar that exploded over Fort Sumter at the mouth of Charleston Harbor. The result of the ensuing siege -- which lasted 34 hours -- was never in doubt: The Union garrison was desperately low on food and a civilian reprovisioning ship had already been driven away. The captured fort, with its immense symbolic importance, remained in Confederate hands until Charleston was evacuated in February 1865.

What to see

Although most of Charleston's sesquicentennial commemorations will take place this month, there will still be much Civil War history to absorb in this charming antebellum city throughout the year.

Fort Sumter National Monument (843-883-3123, nps.gov/fosu) is on an island in Charleston Harbor, reachable only by boat. There is no charge for visiting the island, but the ferry to take you there costs $16 for adults and $10 ages 6-10. Tours are self-guided. Depart from the new National Park Service Visitor Education Center at Liberty Square or from Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum across the Cooper River.

Elsewhere around town, the Charleston Museum has added a special exhibit through Sept. 5, "Threads of War: Clothing and Textiles of the Civil War," which tells the story of the city's upheaval through displays of period clothing, uniform, quilts and flags ($10 adults, $5 ages 3-12; 843-722-2996, charlestonmuseum.org).

Inside the restored 1841 Market Hall, the Confederate Museum -- run by the still-active Charleston chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy -- has a small sampling of Civil War artifacts and personal effects. Admission is $3-$5 (843-723-1541).

The world's first successful combat submarine, the H.L. Hunley, and its eight-man crew, disappeared after sinking the USS Housatonic in February 1864. It was recovered from the depths and now rests in a 90,000-gallon conservation tank. Public tours are available by advanced reservation on Saturdays and Sundays ($12, 877-4HUNLEY, hunley.org).

GETTYSBURG, PA.

History lesson

The irrefutably bloodiest and arguably most pivotal battle of the entire war also was the one fought closest to Long Island. And even though Gettysburg won't be commemorating its sesquicentennial for another two years, most of the preparations already have been completed -- so visit anytime.

What to see

First and foremost is the $135-million visitor center and museum, which opened in 2008, and includes many new and innovative exhibits, the "New Birth of Freedom" film, and the fully restored cyclorama (360-degree painting) of Pickett's Charge ($10.50 adults, $6.50 ages 6-18).

Newer still is attorney Daniel Wills' period residence in "downtown" Gettysburg, with six galleries of exhibits on the aftermath of the battle and two rooms restored to their 1863 appearance: Wills' office and the bedroom where President Lincoln spent the night before delivering his Gettysburg Address ($6.50 adults, $4 ages 6-18).

In addition, the Gettysburg National Military Park authorities have steadily progressed in restoring the battlefield to its wartime appearance, most notably by removing many unsightly modern structures. The annual encampment and engagement re-creations take place July 1-4, followed in August by three consecutive living history weekends (Aug. 13-15, 19-21 and 27-28); details at nps.gov/gett.

RICHMOND, VA.

History lesson

In May of 1861, Richmond replaced Montgomery, Ala., as the capital of the Confederacy and the home of its new president, Mississippian Jefferson Davis. From then until the spring of 1862, when the war arrived on the city's eastern doorstep, Richmond did its best to act the part of a new national capital.

What to see

The Museum and White House of the Confederacy houses the nation's most comprehensive collection of artifacts, manuscripts and photographs of the Confederate States of America. It's joined at the hip with the 11 restored rooms of the 1861-65 residence of Jefferson Davis and his family ($12 adults, $7 ages 7-13; 804-649-1861, moc.org).

Inside the restored 1861 Tredegar Iron Works complex, the American Civil War Center's trademark "In the Cause of Liberty" exhibit tells the story of the Civil War from Union, Confederate and African-American perspectives ($10 adults, $2 ages 6-18; 804-780-1865, tredegar.org).

The adjacent building houses the main visitors' center of the Richmond National Battlefield Park, which has three floors of interactive exhibits (free admission, 804-771-2145, nps.gov/rich).

WASHINGTON, D.C.

History lesson

The Union capital did its best to carry on, despite being surrounded by secessionist Virginia and Southern-sympathizing Maryland. Washington's relevance to the sesquicentennial comes not so much from what happened there, but from the historical and cultural institutions that materialized here afterward.

What to see

The Smithsonian National Museum of American History has two relevant Civil War exhibits: "Abraham Lincoln: An Extraordinary Life" (though May) and the permanent "The Price of Freedom: Americans at War." It's free (202-633-1000, americanhistory.si.edu).

The African American Civil War Museum depicts the history of the 210,000 USCT (United States Colored Troops) who fought; free (202-667-2667, afroamcivilwar.org).

Five days after the South surrendered at Appomattox, John Wilkes Booth shot Lincoln at Ford's Theatre. You can wander the theater with free timed entry tickets. Get them at the box office or pay $3.50 to reserve in advance via Ticketmaster.

READERS' PICKS

Newsday asked readers to share their favorite Civil War sites to visit. Here are some of the responses:

VICKSBURG, MISS.

The car tour of the battlefield at Vicksburg National Military Park is easy to follow, with lots of spots to get out to examine monuments and historic points. Don't miss the USS Cairo museum -- the ironclad ship was sunk in 1862, but salvaged to be put on display. A very worthwhile visit whether you are a history buff or not.

SUBMITTED BY Bonnie Markel, Merrick

HARPERS FERRY, W. VA.

The sheer geography of the place is overwhelming. Here, three states (Maryland, Virgina, West Virginia) come together, as do two major rivers. The mountainous terrain will also get your attention. History abounds in the old part of town -- the buildings tell the story.

SUBMITTED BY Joseph Cosci, Ronkonkoma

ANTIETAM NATIONAL BATTLEFIELD, SHARPSBURG, MD.

It's not commercialized like Gettysburg. The town of Sharpsburg is still a small town, as it was during the war. The battlefield is still surrounded by farms and fields. The significant landmarks are still highly visible, and the site never seems too crowded.

SUBMITTED BY Bill Etzel, Manorville