When's the last time you were at a local Italian eatery and didn't find calamari on the menu? On Long Island, squid is a star -- stuffed, sauteed, grilled, fried. Just pick a place and a style. Here are three neighborhood spots for the big catch and more.

AMICI It's easy to become a regular at Amici, a warm and reliable restaurant. Fried calamari with marinara is the lead squid. Also, try the chicken alla Parmigiana, eggplant rollatine and other Italian-American favorites. Friendly, accommodating service. 304 Rte. 25A, Mount Sinai; 631-473-2400, amicirestaurant.org

ALLISON'S AMALFI This amiable mainstay, with very good service, prepares spirited calamari Amalfitana, or squid with hot cherry peppers. Also recommended: sauteed orata with a hint of fennel; and malloreddus, the Sardinian pasta with meat sauce. 400 Glen Cove Ave., Sea Cliff; 516-656-4774, allisonsamalfi.com

IL CLASSICO The kitchen sends out calamari Luciana in a snappy marinara sauce; and dependable fried calamari. Also look for the minestrone, escarole-and-pasta soup, chicken alla cacciatora, steak alla pizzaiola. The standards, well played. 4857 Merrick Rd., Massapequa Park; 516-798-8496, kpsearch.com/df/ilclassico/all.asp

 
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