Art of Spices Indian opens in Patchogue

The block of South Ocean Avenue just below Montauk Highway is turning into a culinary United Nations, featuring Karl Ehmer (German butcher), Lindo Mexico, Bird & Bao (creative Asian), Mazza Mediterranean (Afghan and Greek) and the new Art of Spices (Indian).

When Art of Spices opened in March, it filled a distinct need as this corner of Long Island is sorely lacking in Indian cuisine. A year ago, owner Kundan Chauhan happened to be "wandering around Patchogue."

"I made a wrong turn," he recalled, "and came across an empty store. I never expected to find an empty store in such a happening location."

Chauhan promptly called the number on the "for lease" sign, the owner of the property came down and "that day, within an hour, we signed the agreement."

The property was "full of junk, and had no kitchen," Chauhan said. What he thought would be a six-month construction job stretched into a year but, in the end, Chauhan had a stylish eatery with a tight menu of Indian classics.

The kitchen puts out a range of dishes, from crowd pleasers like chicken tikka masala and aloo gobi (cauliflower and potato curry) to the Indo-Chinese specialties Manchurian cauliflower and hakka noodles to hara bhara goat, a lush curry whose sauce gets its verdant hue from cilantro. You’ll also find grilled lamb chops, biryanis (chicken, goat, shrimp) and plenty of vegetarian dishes such as the legume-based tadka dal and dal makhani to baingan ka bharta (eggplant). Most dishes are $18 to $24.

At lunch, Art of Spices serves two "thali" samplers, vegetarian ($14.95) and nonvegetarian (($17.95) that include two curries plus rice and freshly made naan (tandoor-roasted flatbread).

Art of Spices, 58 South Ocean Ave., Patchogue, 631-714-4084, artofspices.us. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. Sunday., closed Monday.