Where to get standout calamari on Long Island

Calamari is a perennially popular menu item all over the Island. Here are three good places to get it: 

Jeremy’s Ale House East

239 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport

The menu at Jeremy’s Ale House East features two versions of fine fried squid, one targeting fans of tentacles (”calamari legs,” $11.95), and the other a “legs and rings mix,” $14.95. Jeremy’s also boasts good-value $14 large frozen margaritas, pina coladas and more, along with beer-battered shrimp ($24.95) and tons more fried things. Enjoy it all on Jeremy’s fun, sunny and attractive deck. More info: 516-623-0204, jeremysalehousefreeport.com

Heirloom Tavern

32 Railroad Ave., Glen Head

For 10 years, Heirloom Tavern has boasted not just a convenient LIRR station-adjacent location but a well-deserved reputation for deliciously crispy calamari ($17), every order of which arrives accompanied by three sauces — sweet chili, fra diavolo and spicy aioli — all best enjoyed over Heirloom’s gorgeous mahogany bar softly lit with decanter fixtures. Other menu highlights include horseradish-coated salmon ($31) or filet mignon lusciously adorned with bordelaise sauce ($44). In yet another happy instance of Heirloom’s choose-your-own-adventure approach, all entrees come with a choice of two sides from an extensive list. More info: 516-686-6633

Ellen’s on Front

38 Front St., Greenport

Finally, fans of the lightly-battered and the lightly romantic might head to an East End spot like Ellen’s on Front. There’s much else to recommend at chef Jennie Werts’ charming eatery, including a burger with lovely, melty Vermont Cheddar ($20) and Korean fried rice shingled with slices of juicy duck breast ($32). But nothing beats her cornmeal-crusted calamari ($21), which the menu informs us is served Rhode Island-style — its rings and legs tossed in spicy cherry peppers and sauteed garlic. It's paired with a terrifically tangy lemon-and-parsley aioli. More info: 631-333-2743, ellensonfront.com

By Scott Vogel

scott.vogel@newsday.com

Newsday writer and restaurant critic Scott Vogel aims for a refreshing, gimlet-eyed take on the Long Island food scene, often while drinking a refreshing gimlet.