Review: Bryant & Cooper in Roslyn

Long-running Gold Coast steakhouses aren't hard to find along Northern Boulevard. And in fact, there's little on the menu at Bryant & Cooper that wasn’t served in 1986, when George and Gillis Poll opened the first of what became seven luxe North Shore restaurants.

And it continues to speak to high rollers with big, carnivorous appetites. A recent renovation brightened up the dining room, which retains its clubby feel with brown leather banquettes and thick white tablecloths.

Dry-aged prime steaks are the focus here — porterhouses that feed between two and four people are the restaurant's most popular dish, co-owner Gillis Poll said, followed by the cajun Colorado rib steak. Sirloin, filet mignon, rib eyes and lamb and veal chops are fired just so, too.

The kitchen is equally adroit with seafood, from shellfish towers, lemon sole and swordfish to jumbo lobsters and, in season, Nantucket Bay scallops and stone crab claws.

The requisite sides are all here, too: Wedge salads, superb crab cakes and potatoes hashed, mashed, French- or cottage-fried, baked or Lyonnaise. There’s a sprinkling of Italian dishes, from clams oreganata to linguine in white clam sauce.

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