Cafe Testarossa in Syosset: First bites

Actually, this should be more like the 101st bite.

I first visited Cafe Testarossa in 1988. It was very good. And, over the years, the restaurant named for the great marque of Maranello has zoomed along. There have been some hints of  Emilia-Romagna, but Billy Sansone's establishment usually  revved up in its own way.

Now, it's at full throttle, with Italian and New American accents.

Visit for Sansone's excellent veal meatball sliders, but also for his fluke crudo. Sample the fried calamari, but allow for burrata with Sicilian pistachios and basil pesto. Enjoy the linguine with clams, but don't forget any of the risotti.

And if you're intent on the apple turnover, remember the caramelized banana custard napoleon, too.

After so many tastes and so many years, one thing is certain: the Cafe is at its best today.

Cafe Testarossa, 499 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-364-8877.