Fancy that: Fancy Lee opens in Babylon

Long Islanders, it seems, can’t have enough Asian bistros. In fact, it's starting to look as though rock shrimp tempura may be gaining ground over rigatoni Bolognese.

So along comes Fancy Lee Asian Bistro ‘n’ Sushi, which takes over the diner-like space in Babylon that used to house Fortune Garden. Quarters are now a little bit – well, fancier. The lighting behind the sushi bar is dramatic, and plates and bowls have that asymmetry you see in all the trendiest spots. Of course, the most au courant dishes are represented on the menu.

Like miso-marinated Chilean sea bass. I had it as an appetizer ($8) and it was meltingly good, properly sweet. What set my teeth on edge was the sugary black rice risotto underneath. I was  impressed with a flaky Indian pancake ($5)  served with a nuanced coconut chicken curry sauce. An entree of Malaysian red curry with chicken ($14) would have been more than just good had the chef not been so timid with the spicing.

From the sushi bar, a “foxy lady” roll  ($12) featured salmon, yellowtail and avocado topped with spicy tuna. It was spot on, the rice at just the right temperature and consistency.

Service was solicitous and sweet.

Fancy Lee is at 101 W. Main St., Babylon, 631-422-6505