Fat Boy's Burrito Co. opens in East Northport

When it comes to suspense, the debut of Fat Boy’s Burrito Co. in East Northport dialed it up: For months, the darkened logo stretched boldly over an East Northport storefront while fans on social media wondered when the place might actually open.

And then, one cloudy day during the dreariest time of the year (early Feb.), the sign lit up in neon pink and blue, and Fat Boy’s Burrito Co. swung into action. The Jericho Turnpike eatery is the third for owners (and brothers) Tony and Sam Othman, whose initial spot in Bellmore has garnered a following over the last four years with overstuffed, sometimes outlandish burritos filled with the likes of grilled steak, chicken fingers, pineapple shrimp, roasted corn, fries, tots or spicy Cheetos. Another location, inside the Coliseum Kitchen in Plainview, is a scaled-down version of the full-service spots.

The East Northport Fat Boy’s is larger (fatter?) than the original, a polished warehouse-like space (exposed ductwork, echoing walls) with seating divided between high-tops and regular tables, and a psychedelic mural of a woman sipping a margarita splashed across one wall. Behind the counter, the components of those margaritas are visible — bottles of Patrón and Casamigos tequilas, shakers — and the drinks are delivered in plastic cups topped with gummy bears and pink umbrellas.

As in Bellmore, burritos follow the same format of assertive and offbeat layering, from the Fat Daddy (honey sriracha chicken fingers, rice, fried mozzarella sticks, fries, "chip stix" and special sauce) to the Fat Burger Burger (essentially a cheeseburger stuffed into a burrito) and a riffs on surf and turf, all costing between $11 and $16. Each combo can be made into a bowl over rice or served "naked," i.e. over greens, for the same price. Filling the balance is an ambitious lineup of 16 tacos ($4 to $6) — from Korean barbecued steak to bang-bang shrimp to a simple grilled chicken taco — as well as quesadillas, chunky salads and shareable "snacks" ($7 to $12) such as tots smothered in queso, crema, jalapeños, and diced onion and tomatoes.

With blaring music, the clangs of the kitchen ricocheting off the walls, and much commotion, Fat Boy’s Burrito Co. is not a place to settle in quietly with a laptop, but where a few bills will earn a meal of herculean proportions.

Fat Boy’s Burrito Co. is open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (closed on Sunday) at 4097 Jericho Tpke. In East Northport, 631-701-5454, fatboysburritoco.com