First bite: 516 in Syosset

The transition from Syosset's Moules et Frites to 516 is as basic as the name change.

The Belgian-Alsatian theme is gone, replaced by an immediately more accessible menu of American fare. But, for those who enjoyed the old place, there's good news: the big, warm pretzel is still available, as are good beers on tap.

Also worth sampling are the thick, tender pork chop and the pulled-pork sliders; the chili and the fish taco. Chicken potpie arrives wide as a dinner plate and thin as a Grandma pizza, but it's a flavorful choice, too. And they serve plenty of burgers.

The new eatery is more an easygoing, drop-in spot than a formal destination, and a very welcome table near the railroad station.

516 American Kitchen & Bar, 4  Berry Hill Rd., Syosset; 516-802-0713.

The terrific pretzel from Moules et Frites ... available at 516.