Huntington: Fixed-price, fine food at Joanina

Veterans of downtown Huntington tables will remember when Restaurant Joanina was equal parts eat-in spot and take-out counter. A while back, the order-and-go section gave way to a bigger dining room.

And Joanina has become one of the reliable kitchens for Italian cooking in a town that revels in it. The $25.95 fixed-price dinner is a good deal, especially if you're ready for cavatelli Bolognese and penne primavera, escarole-and-bean soup and pork Milanese.

From the regular menu, try the whole, roasted fish of the day. Even the now-common branzino has its share of flavor, arriving moist and right.  Lasagna: light and well-sauced. And enjoy a seasonal treat: ultra-ripe figs stuffed with tangy goat cheese.

Joanina has a common-sense selection of wines, including many by the glass. The house makes a professional Bellini, too.

Restaurant Joanina, 35A Gerard St., Huntington; 631-549-2727. 

Fish of the day: branzino.