Huntington: Night moves at Toast & Co.

Toast & Company in Huntington, which changed ownership a few months ago, used to be known as a place for breakfast and lunch. Now, however, it has taken on a whole new evening identity  —  "Toast After Hours" —  as well as a new dinner chef,  Darren Calica, who puts out a Continental menu every Tuesday to Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.

Calica has experience with authentic Italian cuisine, having cooked at Osteria Toscana in Huntington and Il Toscano in Douglaston. I can vouch for the two fresh pastas I recently tried. One, pici carbonara (think of shorter, fatter spaghetti) was made with bacon, peas, caramelized onions in a Parmesan broth, the mix tossed with a pasteurized yolk. It was ultrarich, very good and as close as I’ve recently gotten to an authentic Roman carbonara ($14.95). It’s hard to say which I preferred, that dish or Calica's opulent pappardelle (wide noodles) with short ribs in a Chianti-enriched brown sauce with roasted cipollini onions and citrus zest ($16.95).

Prices are moderate (only two dishes on the menu exceed $20) and the atmosphere is relaxed. What’s not to like?

Toast & Co. is at 62 Stewart Ave., Huntington, 631-812-0056