Indian restaurant Dosa World opens in Hicksville

In the already crowded Indian restaurant scene in Hicksville, the new Dosa World is, so far, a standout.

The chef, Loganathan Thangarasu, had been the chef at Pongal, a South Indian restaurant in Manhattan’s Curry Hill neighborhood.

As he looked to move on to a Hicksville location, Thangarasu recruited a few partners, among them Mohemed Basha from Chennai Garden by Tiffin Wallah, a restaurant named for those who deliver tiffin tins for lunch, located around the corner from Pongal.

Dosa World combines the sensibilities of these restaurants, serving vegetarian fare from North and South India with a menu of appetizers ($1.99-$5.25) and thalis (appetizer assortment) from four regions ($13.75), as well as dosas and rava dosas ($4.75-$10.75).

A first order snack of bhel puri ($3.75) is a guilty pleasure, a layering of puffed rice and crispy sev, tamarind and chutney.

The pondicherry masala dosa lends a spice blend with a moderate kick, while the rava dosa with gunpowder chilies — dry spiced — delivers steady heat. The name points to the addition of semolina, which makes it both unusual and practical in that it stays crispy. If you’re thinking of takeout, this is your dish.

These dosas aren’t served as a sleeve that dominates the plate. Instead, they’re cut in quarters on the bias, with edges begging for chutneys.

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Dosa World, 355 South Broadway, Hicksville; 516-390-4444, dosaworld.us