Kissaki opens in Manhasset

Kissaki, the swanky Japanese concept known for its omakase experience, opened its newest location in Manhasset this month, joining other locations in Water Mill, Manhattan and Greenwich, Connecticut. The lush, moody décor commands as much attention as the elevated sushi menu — but it was a long journey to get there.

“This lease was signed over three years ago,” said owner Garry Kanfer of the space that formerly held another Japanese restaurant, Misaki. Pandemic and permitting holdups gave him plenty of time to rethink the omakase concept that headlines his other establishments. That dining style gives the chef complete authority over a multicourse Japanese meal, and is usually pricier and more time-consuming.

Seeing people leaning into more casual dining, often with kids in tow, Kanfer instead decided to take all of his best dishes from his other restaurants and rebuild them as family-style portions. Then came a hot stone for Japanese A5 and American Wagyu with a killer in-house teriyaki, a full sushi selection and even a kids menu. “We want to become part of the community,” he explained. 

Starters include kampachi carpaccio;  wagyu crispy rice ($24) piled high with steak tartare, truffle and caviar; chicken karaage ($12); tuna stuffed avocado ($18) and the aforementioned hot stone ($32).

Large-portioned entrees include wagyu fried rice ($35); uni pasta with Temomi noodles ($28); creamy, decadent spaghetti with a smoky dashi and sesame breadcrumbs ($23); as well as a crowd-favorite miso-blackened cod ($30).

A la carte nigiri and sashimi spans uni, toro, a sea-fresh yellowtail topped with Cubanelle pepper, and salmon with soy truffle carpaccio. Pieces and rolls run $8-$26. There are currently nigiri and sashimi flights ($45), with formal omakase (4 nigiri, 2 hand rolls, dessert, $75) coming soon.

The bar is draped like the dining room in blue velvets with rouge accents, sultry lighting emanating from gold art deco fixtures and exacting tableware — each plate successively different. Similarly, the glasses vary by cocktail, featuring classics like the Shiokaze ($17) made from mezcal, nigori sake, grapefruit, angostura and cocktail bitters; and the Momo Sour ($17) with vodka, sake, egg yolk, white, cinnamon and ume.

Kissaki, 407 Plandome Rd. Manhasset, 516-464-4884, explorekissaki.com. Open Wednesday-Thursday 5-10 p.m., Friday 5 p.m.-11:30 p.m., Saturday noon-11:30 p.m. and Sunday noon-10 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.