Review: Kyma in Roslyn
The Lavraki, or whole branzini, is a specialty at Kyma in Rosyln. Credit: Newsday/Jonah Markowitz
Kyma is the closest you’ll get to Santorini on Long Island.
Whitewashed and festive, this beach party of a Greek seafood restaurant swings all year for those looking for a scene to go with their top-notch seafood.
The "upscale Greek" concept was spearheaded by Costas Spiliadis with the 1997 opening of Estatorio Milos in Manhattan, said Reno Christou, managing partner at Kyma. Christou and chef Chris Kletsides founded nearby Limani before they were lured one mile east in 2013 to Kyma, which now has two outposts back in Manhattan.
Ekmek kadayıfı, a traditional Greek dessert with shredded phyllo layered with pastry cream, whipped cream and pistchio at Kyma in Roslyn. Credit: Stephanie Foley
Serving both lunch and dinner — and a hearty brunch on weekends — the pristine fresh fish at Kyma includes sweet, meaty fagri (from the Mediterranean); delicate, flaky tsipoura (royal dorado); lavraki (branzino), red snapper, pompano and black sea bass. Plus, there's huge shrimp, Maine lobster, Dover sole, Alaskan king crab legs and plenty of Greek salads and spreads.
For a starter, pan-seared sesame-encrusted cheese topped with candied figs and cherry tomato with a raspberry-honey glaze is addictively good, dotting many tables. Otherwise, try a massive shellfish tower, crudo (including yellowfin tuna with caviar and lime) or zucchini and eggplant chips served with tzatziki and sesame feta, Wagyu keftedes, or Greek-style meatballs, are showstoppers, but it’s the octopus — softened and marinated in red-wine vinegar, bay leaves and peppercorns — that is truly unforgettable.
The day's fish offerings on display at Kyma in Roslyn. Credit: Stephanie Foley
Moussaka, steaks, chops and braised lamb shanks will satisfy the fish-averse. Fish larger than two pounds are available baked in sea salt, a meticulous preparation that adds an additional 45 minutes to the meal.
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A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
