Mirabelle

Mirabelle has long been the plum of Long Island's French restaurants. The kitchen remains first-rate, through assorted changes, variations in cuisine, and the years.

Chef Guy Reuge's fare invariably is refined and flavorful, whether traditional or nouvelle, inspired by Europe or occasionally by Asia.

The menu is periodically updated. But among the favorites is a two-course duck, with seared breast and confit of leg, that is outstanding. Lamb chop and leg of lamb also make for a delightful duet, cooked with cider.

Reuge expertly sears foie gras, and it should be ordered in whatever the guise du jour is. Delicate ravioli, with salmon and oyster mushrooms, in a wild mushroom sauce, bridges seasons and decades.

Scrod in a peppery potato latticework, and seared salmon accented with shallots, tomato and bell peppers also are excellent.

Desserts are uniformly delectable, as are the sweets that arrive in advance of your coffee.

A glass of mirabelle d'Alsace clearly captures the spirit of the yellow plum, and the distinctive restaurant that bears its name.

Peter M. Gianotti