Ritz Cafe

It's often hard to get a table at the Ritz Café in Northport, a place that grows more retro with the passing years. I can still recall how, back in the mid 1990s, two talented chefs - Alberto Andia from Peru and Michael Maroni (now of Maroni Cuisine, a block away) - elevated the food to a level that outclassed the 1975-style surroundings.

Today, three or four chefs and more than a decade later, the decor remains stuck in the '70s. The food, however, is a lot less daring. And that seems just fine with the restaurant's devoted following.

RITZY

Briny baked clams kicked off one dinner; another began with fine stuffed mushrooms harboring real crab meat and hardly any bread crumbs. Coral-hued lobster bisque had silkiness and depth of flavor.

I was won over by a juicy, smoky grilled pork chop topped with irresistible pan-fried onion wisps. Rigatoni al fresco with diced fresh tomato, garlic and olive oil was lively, if a bit watery.

My burger was on target - medium-rare, juicy and beefy.

A "molten" chocolate cake was OK, a triple berry cobbler a homestyle treat.

DITSY

Nothing was inherently wrong with the coconut crusted shrimp with mango salsa; it simply was boring. A salad of shrimp over baby greens was just as uninspired. But the term "over-orchestrated" doesn't begin to describe a salad of macadamia-crusted tilapia over greens topped with mango salsa, roasted corn, peppers, black olives and sesame ginger sauce. Whew.

My poor roasted half chicken had first been burned black, then swamped in gravy. Worse, though, was the deafening noise level and clueless service. One night, our party of three was asked to have dessert at the bar on the house so as to free our table for a couple with reservations. We got our cobbler wrapped to go. Another time, we were served by at least four different waitresses and had trouble getting things like water and a spoon.

BOTTOM LINE

If you're prepared for crowds and chaos, you can eat well. Just order selectively.