Nobu sous chef opens Sushi by Kuryu in Roslyn Heights

When my colleagues heard there was a new “chef from Nobu” opening a spot in Roslyn Heights, they were skeptical. Be wary, they warned, every food worker with a Nobu connection would be crazy not to highlight such training; it’s hard to know who can deliver the goods. As the newest food reporter on the FeedMe team, I arrived at Roslyn Seafood Gourmet — the storefront inside of which the new Sushi by Kuryu lives — expecting to be disappointed. But as it turns out, I was surprised.

Seven standard rolls range from California ($9) to a house special ($18) which contained tuna, crab, salmon, avocado, cucumber, and tobiko. Other highlights include seared salmon ($14) and yellowtail ($17) sushi boxes, as well as omakase specials that range from $50-$100 and include an ever-changing assortment of fish. Of the rolls, the spicy tuna ($10) was a standout, fresh and piled high with cubed tuna (rather than minced) and lightly tossed (rather than drowned) in a signature mayo with just the right note of spice.

Born and raised in Nagoya, Japan, chef Teruo Yoshioka is the real deal, having worked for Nobu in downtown Manhattan for 16 years. In 2013, he launched Kuryu New York catering service, creating in-home private dining experiences for sushi fans around New York City. When he left Nobu in 2020, it was to launch Kuryu New York Kitchen Lab in Park Slope, Brooklyn, billing itself as a “take-away delicatessen” for diners craving luxe Japanese food at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. The food labor shortage forced Yoshioka to close Kitchen Lab earlier this year. While his catering arm survived, a new opportunity beckoned.

A friend of Yoshioka, Gerry Vera, owned Roslyn Seafood Gourmet, an established shop that wins raves from locals. Vera had recently expanded the store to add seating for customers who wanted to dine-in on the shop’s prepared food. Yoshioka and Vera got to talking, bemoaning “the lack of fantastic sushi spots on the Island.” Alas, a partnership was born.

For now, Sushi by Kuryu is open weekdays from noon to 5 p.m. with the hope of expanding to include weekend sit-down dinner service. Yoshioka can be found in the back of the space behind a counter, thoughtfully and meticulously crafting each piece of sushi. Though the space itself, a fluorescent-lit retail fish shop, doesn’t exactly scream ambience, you can text your order for convenient pickup and take-away.

Sushi by Kuryu at Roslyn Seafood Gourmet, 444 Willis Avenue, Roslyn Heights; opening hours are noon to 5 p.m. weekdays; 646-283-9611; www.kuryunyc.com

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.