Ten Ten Asian Sushi Bistro

Feeding Long Island's addiction to pan-Asian sushi bar restaurants is the new Ten Ten Asian Sushi Bistro, whose very name telegraphs trendiness. Although its crew has roots in China, the cuisines of Japan and Southeast Asia predominate.

Actually, the wonton soup here is quite good, thanks to light, house-made shrimp and pork wontons. Fragrant Japanese clam soup harbors fresh clams and shards of ginger; the electric Thai shrimp hot and sour soup needs a bit more shellfish.

"Smile," I want to say to the stern young woman who takes my lunch order -- a bento plate whose highlights include moist grilled salmon teriyaki, a spot-on mini salmon roll (substituted, on request, for a tuna roll) and thin-skinned gyoza, or pork dumplings.

At a subsequent dinner, servers again seem detached, cool. Heating things up is a daredevil roll comprising spicy tuna, salmon, scallion, kani (imitation crab) and pepper-crusted tuna. A sprightly vegetable roll, cut into five pieces, offers refreshing contrast.

From the kitchen come toothsome Saigon dumplings filled with pork and shrimp, paired with a feisty peanut sauce. Beef satays are smoky and juicy, while an Indian pancake -- just a circle of fried dough with a robust curry sauce -- is hard to stop eating.

Chirashi, fresh raw fish over rice, comes at proper room temperature in a lacquered box. But instead of cooked shrimp and kani, the chef would have done better to include a more interesting seafood. Sea urchin, perhaps.

An entree called young ginger duck features tender, well-seasoned meat that's a bit oversauced. Too much spicy mango sauce undermines an otherwise fine and fiery chicken dish. A finicky friend finishes all her ginger-glazed chicken; after one bite, I understand why.

Dinner concludes with green tea tartufo. While the Italian-Japanese dessert isn't made on premises, it is -- like the restaurant -- a hybrid that works.