The best things to eat on Long Island

Crudo changes every few days at Fatfish in Bay Shore, such as this tuna crudo with oranges, chili salt and pulverized hazelnuts.

The warm Connecticut lobster roll with tarragon citrus butter, coleslaw and shoestring fries at Lazy Lobster in East Rockaway.

Pan seared Chilean sea bass at One10

Pan seared Chilean sea bass with shaved Brussels sprouts, roasted pistachio, shallot and lobster vinaigrette served at One10 in Melville.

Fried calamari piadini at One10

Fried calamari piadini with zucchini, artichoke, frisee, cherry peppers and tomato aioli at One10 in Melville.

M Bar platter at One10

The M Bar platter presents definitive charcuterie from piles of prosciutto di parma, fresh mozzarella, beefsteak tomatoes and 36-month-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano at One10 in Melville.

'Oops I Dropped the Cannoli' at One10

"Oops I Dropped the Cannoli" is a playful dessert of deconstructed cannoli with Fior di Panna gelato, chocolate sauce, pistachio, chocolate chips and candied lemon peel at One10 in Melville.

Short ribs at Fogo de Chao

Short ribs are fall-apart tender at Fogo de Chao in Carle Place.

Picanha burger at Fogo de Chao

The excellent house picanha burger is draped in melted provolone at Fogo de Chao in Carle Place.

Cauliflower steak at Fogo de Chao

A superb Parmesan-crusted cauliflower steak is served with lentil quinoa and asparagus at Fogo de Chao in Carle Place.

Chicken tikka kebab at Kandahar Grill

The chicken tikka kebab at Kandahar Grill in Hicksville features grilled, marinated cubes of chicken served over rice with salad, onions and pita bread.

Mantu dumplings at Kandahar Grill

Mantu dumplings are filled with chicken and double-drizzled with tomato and yogurt sauces at Kandahar Grill in Hicksville.

Lamb gyro platter at Kandahar Grill

The lamb gyro platter at Kandahar Grill in Hicksville features grilled cubes of lamb and onion over fragrant rice. It's drizzled with yogurt sauce.

Chapli kebab at Kandahar Grill

The chapli kebab features patties of smartly seasoned ground beef at Kandahar Grill in Hicksville.

Pork-shrimp-chive dumplings at Zouji Dumpling House

Classic pork-shrimp-chive dumplings are served at Zouji Dumpling House in Glen Cove.

Mapo tofu at Zouji Dumpling House

Mapo tofu, a homestyle dish invented in Sichuan but popular all over China, varies with the cook but always includes fermented bean sauce, chilies and ground meat. We've never had a better rendition than at Zouji Dumpling House in Glen Cove.

Stir-fried cauliflower at Zouji Dumpling House

Pale, sweet cauliflower is stir-fried with dried chili peppers and served in a tiny wok resting on a Sterno flame at Zouji Dumpling House in Glen Cove.

Salt-and-pepper shrimp at Zouji Dumpling House

The shells on the head-on salt-and-pepper shrimp are thin enough to eat at Zouji Dumpling House in Glen Cove.

'Five-colors green bean sheet jelly' at Zouji Dumpling House

"Five-colors green bean sheet jelly," emphatically not a jelly made with green beans, but rather "noodles" cut from a sheet of faintly green mung-bean starch, is served at Zouji Dumpling House in Glen Cove. The texture is slippery-chewy and the taste comes from a mélange of shredded pork, matchstick cucumbers, seaweed, carrots and pleasantly grain sesame sauce.

Spaghetti carbonara at Bravo! Nader

A smoky spaghetti carbonara is served at Bravo! Nader in Huntington.

Crabcake at Bravo! Nader

Crabcakes are fried 'til copper, tightly packed with sweet crab meat and just enough filler to add heft, then plated in a suave tomato sauce at Bravo! Nader in Huntington.

Spiedini alla Romana at Bravo! Nader

Spiedini alla Romana -- fried triangles of mozz layered with prosciutto in an anchovy-and caper-accented sauce -- are addictive at Bravo! Nader in Huntington.

'Combo feast' at Holy Smoke Grill

The "combo feast" comes with an 8-ounce steak, a big, fat grilled Italian sausage, six Buffalo wings and three skewers of grilled pork kebab at Holy Smoke Grill in Wantagh.

Shell steak at Holy Smoke Grill

The 12-ounce shell steak is full of flavor and cooked to a perfect medium-rare at Holy Smoke Grill in Wantagh. It comes with a heap of homestyle mashed potatoes and another heap of garlicky sauteed vegetables.

'Minnie Mouse macaroni & cheese' at Holy Smoke Grill

The "Minnie Mouse macaroni & cheese," featuring elbow pasta with a blend of Cheddar and Gruyere, is highly recommended at Holy Smoke Grill in Wantagh.

Brisket sandwich at Holy Smoke Grill

The brisket sandwich, blanketed with mozzarella, is served on a ciabatta roll at Holy Smoke Grill in Wantagh.

Rotisserie chicken at Holy Smoke Grill

The rotisserie chicken at Holy Smoke Grill in Wantagh is juicy with cracklingly crisp skin.

Steamed pork shumai dumplings at Fortune Wheel

Steamed dumplings, including these pork shumai dumplings, and other dim sum offerings are served tableside from a steam cart in the dining room of Fortune Wheel in Levittown.

Steamed chicken feet at Fortune Wheel

Steamed chicken feet are a dim sum specialty at Fortune Wheel in Levittown.

Seared turnip cakes at Fortune Wheel

Seared turnip cakes are an enchanting dish at Fortune Wheel in Levittown.

Taro cake at Fortune Wheel

A crunchy taro cake jazzed up by minced shrimp is crunchy-tender and savory-sweet at Fortune Wheel in Levittown.

Daily fish board at Herb & Olive

The daily fish board at Herb & Olive in Manhasset features a changing selection of three seafood preparations. Here; grilled octopus over "fava" puree, grilled shrimp and fried calamari.

Grilled kefalotri cheese sandwich at Herb & Olive

The grilled kefalotri cheese sandwich with black truffle spread is served on zea bread at Herb & Olive in Manhasset.

Greek salads at Herb & Olive

The two best-known Greek salads are perfectly rendered at Herb & Olive in Manhasset: the lettuce-less horiatiki ("village") salad of chopped cucumbers, red onions, tomatoes and feta, and the prasini ("green") salad, a pile of delicate shreds of romaine and dill. Also sensational is the dakos salad, featuring dampened barley crackers covered with grated tomatoes, crumbled feta and dehydrated olives.

Kefalonitiki kreotopia at Herb & Olive

Kefalonitiki kreotopia, a hand pie filled with beef, rice and potatoes scented with cinnamon and cloves, is served at Herb & Olive in Manhasset.

Straw and hay pasta at Abbracciamento

Straw and hay pasta features a steamy tangle of fettuccine dotted with peas and shards of prosciutto at Abbracciamento in Lynbrook.

Burrata at Abbracciamento

Burrata is served with marinated peppers, housemade rustico bread, Prosciutto di Parma, olives, pepperoncini and cornichon pickles at Abbracciamento in Lynbrook.

Salmon at Abbracciamento

The salmon at Abbracciamento in Lynbrook has uber-crispy skin and velvety flesh. It's topped with a savory zabaglione sauce (a yolk-hued blend of eggs, cream, lemon and butter).

Vongole Oregenata at Abbracciamento

Vongole Oregenata, little neck clams topped with herbed breadcrumbs, lemon and extra virgin olive oil at Abbracciamento in Lynbrook.

Celebration steak at Tellers

The Celebration steak, a bone-in NY strip, is glazed with bourbon cherry compote at Tellers in Islip.

Tuna Rossini at Tellers

Tuna Rossini, planks of rosy-hued fish arranged tepee-style over foie gras and black truffle sauce, is served at Tellers in Islip.

Black pepper bacon at Tellers

Black pepper bacon, which is actually an inch-thick slab of pork belly with a tongue-tingling horseradish glaze and inky sear, is served at Tellers in Islip.

Key lime pie at Tellers

The superb Key lime pie is scrumptious on its own, but sublime when plated with a blueberry sauce and coconut sorbet at Tellers in Islip.

Shrimp ceviche at Havana Central

Shrimp ceviche at Havana Central in Garden City features firm shrimp, avocado, sour orange, tomato, red onion, cilantro and jalapeno served in a crispy yucca bowl. It comes with a side of fried plantains.

Fried calamari at Havana Central

Fried calamari is served with sweet tomato sauce at Havana Central in Garden City. The breading is light, well-seasoned, crunchy perfection.

Vaca frita at Havana Central

Vaca frita-- crispy, powerfully flavored shredded beef with lime, cubanelle peppers, garlic and onions -- is served at Havana Central in Garden City. It comes with a side of cilantro rice topped with a fried egg.

Flan at Havana Central

Flan is served with caramel and whipped cream at Havana Central in Garden City.

Housemade pappardelle at Meritage Wine Bar

Housemade pappardelle is tumbled with butternut squash, crispy sage and a sheen of brown butter at Meritage Wine Bar in Glen Cove.

Shaved Brussels sprouts salad at Meritage Wine Bar

The shaved Brussels sprouts salad at Meritage Wine Bar in Glen Cove is dressed in a punchy shallot vinaigrette and topped with shaved Parmesan.

Truffled risotto at Meritage Wine Bar

Black truffled risotto with mushrooms, black-truffle jus and Parmesan is served at Meritage Wine Bar in Glen Cove.

Steamed PEI mussels at Meritage Wine Bar

Steamed PEI mussels in coconut-curry broth are served with grilled ciabatta at Meritage Wine Bar in Glen Cove.

Pork ramen at Bakuto

Pork ramen features slices of chashu pork (braised belly) at Bakuto in Lindenhurst.

Spicy beef-and-garlic udon at Bakuto

Spicy beef-and-garlic udon is made with brisket and topped with shaved Brussels sprouts and scallions at Bakuto in Lindenhurst.

Grilled chicken wings at Bakuto

Grilled chicken wings rely only on the balance of soy, garlic and sesame at Bakuto in Lindenhurst.

Tilefish at Bakuto

Meaty-tender tilefish is brushed with miso-sake-ginger at Bakuto in Lindenhurst.

Porgy crudo at Bakuto

Porgy crudo at Bakuto in Lindenhurst features opalescent medallions of raw fish topped with garlic (both golden fried and pickled), shiso leaf and coriander.

Crispy chicken buns at Bakuto

Crispy chicken buns, steamed baos filled with chicken thighs that have been pressed, panko-ed, fried and kicked up with yuzu pickle and scallions, are served at Bakuto in Lindenhurst.

Cocktails at Bakuto

Cocktails are delicious at Bakuto in Lindenhurst. Options include (from left): The Lucky Dog sake juice box; The Tiki with tum, cachaca, melon liqueur, coconut, pineapple, lime, and toasted rice; The Lemongrass Negroni with lemongrass shochu, bitter pear, and blanc vermouth; The shochu sour with sour shochu, choice of citrus, and club soda; The Sesame with rye, ginger, yuzu, and sesame oil; and The Jasmine with gin, brandy, Jasmine, lemon, salted plum, club soda.

Spaghetti pomodoro at Osteria Morini

The marvelous spaghetti pomodoro is garnished with basil at Osteria Morini in Garden City.

Chicken-fennel sausage at Osteria Morini

Chicken-fennel sausage with broccoli-rabe pesto is an excellent appetizer at Osteria Morini in Garden City.

Cappelletti filled with truffled ricotta at Osteria Morini

Cappelletti filled with truffled ricotta and dressed with butter and prosciutto is served at Osteria Morini in Garden City.

Veal chop at Osteria Morini

The 16-ounce veal chop at Osteria Morini in Garden City is a stunner. It's two inches thick, pink from edge to edge and napped with a pancetta cream.

Duck breast at Osteria Morini

Duck breast, cheered on by glazed onions, sweet-and-sour figs and sweet-potato puree, is served at Osteria Morini in Garden City.

Grilled Atlantic salmon at Vincent's Clam Bar

Sauteed seasonal vegetables and roasted potatoes accompany the fresh, flavorsome and well-grilled Atlantic salmon at Vincent's Clam Bar in Carle Place.

Chicken Francese at Vincent's Clam Bar

Chicken Francese features gently breaded breast meat in a lemon butter sauce at Vincent's Clam Bar in Carle Place.

'Lobster Kiss' at Vincent's Clam Bar

The "Lobster Kiss" at Vincent's Clam Bar in Carle Place features tender lobster meat swirled with scallops and cream sauce, served over linguine.

Clams on the half-shell at Vincent's Clam Bar

Clams on the half-shell are the marquee item at Vincent's Clam Bar in Carle Place, and they're delicious.

Napoleon at Vincent's Clam Bar

Bavarian cream dominates the sky-high napoleon, a monumental dessert at Vincent's Clam Bar in Carle Place.

K-Mac slider at Kotobuki

The K-Mac slider at Kotobuki in Hauppauge features a patty of chopped tuna, rice, tempura flakes and scallions sandwiched between two fried rice crackers.

Yellowtail sashimi at Kotobuki

Yellowtail sashimi is served with soy sauce and jalapeno peppers at Kotobuki in Hauppauge.

Fluke fin at Kotobuki

Fluke fin (engawa) is ruffled onto a skewer and seared at Kotobuki in Hauppauge.

Fluke sashimi at Kotobuki

Fluke sashimi is topped with yuzu kosho (pepper paste) and scallion at Kotobuki in Hauppauge.

Tuna carpaccio at Kotobuki

Tuna carpaccio is served with a creamy wasabi mayo at Kotobuki in Hauppauge.

Grilled lamb chops at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar

Lamb rib chops are hefty, fatty and adroitly cooked at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar in Huntington, peppery on the outside and a spot-on medium-rare inside.

Grilled octopus at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar

Coins of braised octopus, drenched in broth and smoldering with smoked paprika, are served at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar in Huntington.

Pork chops at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar

Herb and panko-crusted pork chops over braised red cabbage with carrots and whipped potatoes is a perfect autumn dish at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar in Huntington, a lingonberry sauce brightening each bite.

Fried calamari at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar

Delicate, practically greaseless fried calamari is served with Korean gochujang and tartar sauce at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar in Huntington.

Hibiscus martini at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar

A tart hibiscus martini, made with Monkey 47 gin, is served at Barmani's Kitchen & Bar in Huntington.

Pork sticks at 317 Main Street

At 317 Main Street in Farmingdale, crispy pork sticks are braised, doused with a gingery sauce, and scored so that the tender meat can be pulled off in strips.

Triple blend burger at 317 Main Street

The mouthwatering triple blend burger is made with chuck, short loin and brisket meat at 317 Main Street in Farmingdale.

Sea scallops at 317 Main Street

Pan seared sea scallops are served over velvety corn risotto at 317 Main Street in Farmingdale.

Wedge salad shaker at 317 Main Street

The wedge salad shaker is plated tableside at 317 Main Street in Farmingdale.

Al pastor tacos at Taco El Chingón

Al pastor tacos are topped with cilantro and onions and accompanied by lime and radish at Taco El Chingón in Bellmore.

Huevos rancheros at Taco El Chingón

Taco El Chingón in Bellmore serves breakfast all day, and the huevos rancheros are stunning. The dish features fried eggs positioned on crisp tortillas, rimmed with a simple tomato salsa.

Machete at Taco El Chingón

Machete, a floppy, oversized house tortilla layered with refried beans, melted Oaxacan cheese, sliced avocado, tangy crema and a meat of your choosing is served at Taco El Chingón in Bellmore.

Flautas at Taco El Chingón

Flautas, rolled crispy tacos stuffed with shredded chicken and topped with lettuce, Mexican crema and queso fresco are served at Taco El Chingón in Bellmore.

Yogurt parfait at The Breakfast Club

If you're looking to start the day with fewer carbs, order the yogurt parfait at The Breakfast Club in Rockville Centre. It features unsweetened Greek yogurt, berries and broken-up pieces of granola.

Avocado toast at The Breakfast Club

"Meaty" avocado toast is topped with crumbled bacon and roasted tomatoes at The Breakfast Club in Rockville Centre.

Southern grits at The Breakfast Club

Stone-ground Southern grits are prepared with Cheddar and topped with poached eggs and spinach at The Breakfast Club in Rockville Centre.

Biscuits at The Breakfast Club

A basket of two flaky-crunchy-tender biscuits comes with honey butter and jam at The Breakfast Club in Rockville Centre.

Paccheri affumicante at Tutti Noi

Paccheri affumicante, giant Neapolitan rigatoni in a tomato cream sauce with a sprinkling of smoked pancetta, is a crowd-pleaser at Tutti Noi in Oceanside.

Chicken capricciosa at Tutti Noi

Chicken capricciosa, a perfectly fried cutlet topped with a heap of arugula, cherry tomatoes and red onion, is a simple, unqualified success at Tutti Noi in Oceanside.

Cozze Posillipo at Tutti Noi

Cozze Posillipo, plump mussels arrayed in tight concentric circles on a mellow, saffrony tomato sauce, is served at Tutti Noi in Oceanside.

Antipasto freddo at Tutti Noi

Antipasto freddo is elevated by stem-on artichokes, housemade mozzarella and a caponata (Sicilian sweet-sour eggplant stew) at Tutti Noi in Oceanside.

Porterhouse steak at Peter Luger Steakhouse

The porterhouse steak for two is served sizzling on a platter at Peter Luger Steakhouse in Great Neck.

Iceberg wedge salad at Peter Luger Steakhouse

At Peter Luger Steakhouse in Great Neck, the iceberg wedge salad is a poster child for wedges everywhere -- the head of lettuce falling open like a flower, hot bacon melting the blue-cheese crumbles below.

Creamed spinach, German potatoes at Peter Luger Steakhouse

Sides at Peter Luger Steakhouse in Great Neck include creamed spinach and German potatoes with crispy blackened bits.

Bacon at Peter Luger Steakhouse

Oblong slabs of bacon are ordered by the slice and served glistening and ungarnished, in all their fatty glory at Peter Luger Steakhouse in Great Neck.