Thom Thom

If you have that hungry yearning burning inside, follow the beat, beat, beat of the Thom Thom.

Now under the same ownership as the appetizing Asian-fusion West East Bistro in Hicksville, Thom Thom has refined the cooking and juiced up the experience. It's very good, whether you're here for the beef, the sushi or nouveau combinations.

An artful fan swirls overhead. Black-and-white photos of vintage New York, from The Cotton Club and Times Square to the skyline seen from Brooklyn, provide a taste of nostalgia. But Thom Thom's kitchen definitely updates the surf-and-turf theme.

THE BEST

That's evident in the duly named special sushi roll, which brings together shrimp tempura and grilled filet mignon in a tasty, unwieldy production. The flavorful shrimp-and-chorizo risotto is a harmonious union, too. But chef Omar Bello excels with mushroom risotto, a savory side dish for almost any main course. Kung pao calamari has stayed on the menu, loaded with ground peanuts and a trace of spice. Steamed mussels arrive with a Thai-curry accent from lemongrass and basil. The plump crabcake benefits from a feisty, red-pepper riff on sauce rémoulade. Heading the steaks are the very tender filet and the husky porterhouse. Try the buttery sauce Béarnaise or the peppercorn sauce with them. Adding grilled, wild jumbo shrimp completes the package. A red-wine reduction goes with the good pork version of osso buco. Seared diver scallops are complemented by citrus-ginger beurre blanc. The traditional nigirizushi, or uncooked fish on ovals of vinegared rice, requires no embellishments. Thom Thom veterans will be glad to know that the chocolate bag, filled with ice cream, bananas, whipped cream and chocolate sauce, is still here.

THE REST

Limp coconut shrimp, dry paella, standard grilled yellowfin tuna, heavy-duty lobster bisque.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Yin meets yang.