Yuzu

Dinner at the week-old Yuzu Fusion in Roslyn, in the narrow space formerly occupied by The Day Boat Café. (A new Day Boat is in the works right next door; in January owner John Durkin said he was looking toward a June opening.)

I suppose it’s nice that Roslyn Village now has a sushi bar, but on this early visit, nothing about Yuzu distinguished it from the hundreds (thousands?) of Japanese restaurants already slinging sushi on Long Island. My miso soup had a weird sweet note; the dipping sauce for the meager portion of oshitashi (steamed and chilled spinach) was too acidic. Three days later, I cannot even remember which baroque “house special roll” my companion ordered. For my main dish, I ordered unagi don, a rice bowl topped with barbecued eel, and it disconcertingly came on a plate. Too cold.

There wasn’t much evidence of the “fusion” of the restaurant’s name. My friend got a tom yum seafood udon soup which, I guess, fused Thai and Japanese soup traditions … to no perceptible advantage.

Although I’m not a huge fan of the deafening and oft-overrated Kotobuki, up the road at 1530 Old Northern Blvd., right now it’s a better bet than Yuzu.

Yuzu is at 1361 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-8868.