20th Century Limited: What it's like riding the historic train 

"Until you step off the train, you’re in 1948," said the conductor, as a group of women dressed to the nines in colorful suits, dresses and veiled hats climbed onboard, emphasizing his point.

For 65 years, the 20th Century Limited took passengers from New York to Chicago, carrying luminaries like Frank Sinatra, Walt Disney, Lucille Ball, Bing Crosby and Marilyn Monroe. Now Hudson River Rail Excursions is giving people an opportunity to step back in time and relive the golden age of train travel, running day trips out of Penn Station to Albany on restored vintage rail cars from the late 1940s.

Since 2021, the nonprofit United Railroad Historical Society of New Jersey has been running day trips along the Hudson, said Kevin Phalon, president of the society. "People love it," said Phalon, explaining that many passengers go all out for the experience, dressing up in vintage style. "We tapped into a wide demographic," he said. If they’re not "train people, they’re interested in travel, history, unique experiences," he said. "These are people who want to get in touch with this long-lost way of travel."

The season runs through early November, but train buffs from all over the world love this journey and the trips sell out almost instantly. In late August, said Phalon, a third train car was added to the trips — a sleeper/lounge car called the Swift Stream, adding 24-28 more seats, though in early September there were just a few left. Tickets for the 2025 season will go on sale early next year, and if you’re serious about snagging one, sign up for notifications at hudsonriverrail.com and be prepared to go online at the exact moment they become available.

WHAT TO EXPECT

The day starts in Amtrak’s first-class Metropolitan Lounge at Penn Station’s Moynihan Train Hall, where a light breakfast is available. The train leaves a little after 11 a.m., and passengers head to one of three cars attached to a regularly scheduled Amtrak train on the New York Central Main Line. The historic cars are instantly identifiable thanks to the red carpet rolled out in front — and passengers quickly learn that it was the rail line that initiated this famed status symbol.

The Hickory Creek is the most luxurious of the three cars, holding only 16 passengers who can spread out in a comfortable array of sofas and lounge chairs (the most coveted spot is the rear-facing love seat with panorama windows). A four-course lunch with entrees like braised short ribs, wine and soft drinks is served by a steward who delights in every detail, offering interesting tidbits about things like how the railroad’s chef came up with the French dressing (he was searching for "something continental"). Tickets for this car cost $379-$399 a person this season (prices have not been determined for next year, said Phalon).

The atmosphere is more laid back in the Tavern-Lounge No. 43, where seating for 32 is in a row of armchairs facing the windows or a few booths. In the new Swift Stream, passengers are seated at reserved tables for two or four in the lounge or in private suites that were once bedrooms. Lunch consists of assorted sandwiches (smoked turkey, salmon salad, something vegan), homemade potato chips and soft drinks (everything else is bring your own). Tickets in the Tavern-Lounge cost $179-$199 a person this year; Swift Stream tickets were $699 for four, $349 for two.

This year the organization also added several overnight trips to Chicago, and Phalon said more will probably be added down the road.

WHAT YOU'LL SEE

Pulling out of the station, the train rolls through some graffitied tunnels before the buildings of the Bronx come into view. The train mostly hugs the shore of the Hudson on the 2½-hour trip to the Albany-Rensselaer station. Along the way, passengers watch the scenery (especially impressive during the fall foliage season), getting glimpses of landmarks like the Hudson Athens Lighthouse, Bannerman Castle (a former munitions storage facility), West Point and Sing Sing State Prison. On select trips, rangers from the Roosevelt-Vanderbilt National Historic Sites come along, pointing out many of the notable points of interest. The train moves at a fast clip, nearly 110 miles an hour, so it's wise to pay attention if there’s something you want to see.

Once at the station, passengers have about two hours as the train is turned around for the return trip. Most people head into town to explore Albany—" a highly underrated city," according to Clint Henderson, managing editor of the travel site The Points Guy. Henderson, who wrote about the trip for the site’s newsletter, made the most of his time in Albany, touring the state Capitol, taking in the view from the top floor of the city’s tallest building, Corning Tower, and visiting the New York State Museum, where he loved the display of a vintage subway car.

Once back on board, passengers are invited to tour the other cars, including a couple of restored bedrooms and the tiny kitchen where Hickory Creek meals are prepared. Snacks and sweets are served during the return journey, and there’s always the hope for a spectacular sunset as the train heads back into Manhattan.