Gemelli's Gourmet / Coyle's ice cream opens in Lindenhurst

"Gemelli: The Next Generation" could be the name of the new gourmet deli that opened Wednesday in Lindenhurst, but Gemelli’s Gourmet is the name chosen by Adriana, Alessia and Marc Schutz. The siblings are the grandchildren of Gelsomina Cosentino, the matriarch behind Gemelli Fine Foodsand Gemelli Ristorante in Babylon; they are the children of Robert and Patrizia Schutz, who established Glen Head’s Gemelli Gourmet Market North in 2016.

"We always wanted to do something together," said Alessia. The three had been working for their parents in the Glen Head store, a sprawling emporium that encompasses prepared foods, grocery items, a butcher, baked goods, sushi, salads, sandwiches, catering and more. "That store is a monster," she said. "We wanted to get back to our roots with a one-stop shop for grab-and-go foods."

While Alessia was looking for a Gemelli space, her husband, Michael Khoury, was casting about for a third location for Coyle’s, the homemade ice cream chain that he and partner Quadir Russell operate in Bay Shore and Islip. This long, narrow space on South Wellwood Avenue fit both of their bills. "Lindenhurst is up and coming," she said. "We felt that the town could really use something like this."

Spiffily renovated with a sharp black-and-white decor, the former photography shop accommodates the ice cream up front, the deli in the middle and the deli’s kitchen in back. That kitchen enables the savory team to make pretty much everything on the premises, under the direction of Anthony Rubino, the chef who happens to be Marc Schutz’s childhood friend.

Gemelli Gourmet’s 30 specialty sandwiches ($12.99 to $16.99) range from traditional Italian flavors (the Godfather features salami, pepperoni, soppressata, capicola, mortadella and provolone on a semolina hero; the Sorrento, porchetta, Parmesan, broccoli rabe and sun-dried tomatoes on ciabatta) to a Vietnamese-inspired banh mi (pork belly, cilantro, carrot-onion slaw and cucumber), a Mexican-inspired birria (house-braised beef with onion, garlic aioli, cilantro and dipping consommé) and an All-American Vermonter (honey-glazed ham, bacon, Cheddar, sliced apples, arugula and honey mustard).

Just as impressive is the care that goes into every sandwich: Chicken cutlets are sliced horizontally to provide a more satisfying mouthful; hot sandwiches are warmed in a programmable Fit Express oven that uses convection and microwave technology to cook fast without burning.

A full range of prepared foods includes fried or grilled cutlets, meatballs (beef-pork, turkey or eggplant), Tuscan kale salad, potato salad, coleslaw and three different pasta salads — fusilli with cherry tomatoes, pesto and mozzarella; orzo with shiitake mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, spinach and almonds; classic macaroni salad made with twisted gemelli. This pasta shape is a culinary allusion to the name of the business: Twins, "gemelli" in Italian, run in the Cosentino family, with two sets among Gelsomina’s grandchildren, including Alessia and Adriana.

There are also freshly prepared burgers ($14.99), pastas ($16.99 to $18.99), 15 signature salads and an extensive salad bar where you can have your romaine, mesclun, spinach or arugula chopped and tossed with your choice of dozens of ingredients.

Just make sure you leave room for ice cream.

Gemelli’s Gourmet / Coyle’s, 189 S. Wellwood Ave., Lindenhurst, 631-592-4363, gemellisgourmetli.com