New England summer escape: Cape Cod, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket

If you're curious about Atlantic beach destinations not on Long Island, get yourself to the southeast corner of Massachusetts, where summertime feels comfortably familiar and yet distinctly different from the Hamptons, the North Fork and Fire Island. Low-key Cape Cod is famous not for its celebrity sightings, but for its clam shacks. Visitors arrive on Nantucket without cars, and enjoy biking along traffic-free roads. Martha’s Vineyard has a reputation for exclusivity, but has a history reaching back to the abolition of slavery as a haven for African American vacationers.

Here's a guide to these quaint destinations and things to explore while you're there.

GETTING THERE

It’s a 240-mile drive, about four hours, from New York City to Onset, Massachusetts, the gateway to Cape Cod. Then you’ll have to take Bourne Bridge or Sagamore Bridge to get on to Cape Cod proper. Route 6, also known as the Mid Cape Highway, links 12 of Cape Cod’s 15 towns. Route 28 passes through the remaining three — Falmouth, Barnstable, and Chatham. As on Long Island, the summer traffic among towns can be brutal, especially on weekends, so plan accordingly.

To get to Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket by car, drive to Woods Hole on Cape Cod (250 miles from New York City and 262 miles from Long Island) and take the Steamship Authority ferry (steamshipauthority.com) to Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs or the Nantucket terminal in Nantucket town. Get around either island by bike, taxi or the Vineyard Transit bus system, which makes stops in all the island towns and runs shuttle service to the beaches and the Nantucket WAVE, which provides free service all summer long to and from the airport and beaches.

CAPE COD

Go to Cape Cod, the “flexed arm” of Massachusetts that extends into the Atlantic Ocean, for the sun and sand. The Cape Cod National Seashore has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country as well as miles of walking and biking trails. Daily beach passes ($25) are available at entrances to beach parking lots.

To learn about the history and ecology of one special part of the park, the Peaked Hill Bars Historic District Sand Dunes and its famed artist cottages (Jack Kerouac and e.e. cummings lived in the primitive shacks at one time). 

Get out on the water with the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy (235 Orleans Rd., North Chatham, Massachusetts; 508-348-5901; atlanticwhiteshark.org), which runs hourlong Chatham Harbor receiver tours ($80) with the chance to view a receiver and learn about white shark research, biology, and conservation efforts.

Don’t miss out on the Cape’s cultural attractions like Edward Gorey House (8 Strawberry Lane, Yarmouth Port; 508-362-3909; edwardgoreyhouse.org), an old sea captain’s home where acclaimed illustrator Gorey lived until his death in 2000. Frequently rotating exhibitions explore every aspect of the artist’s work. Tickets are $10; $4 ages 5-12.

WHERE TO SHOP

Shop for single-ball Cape Cod bracelets and other seashore-themed pieces of handmade jewelry at Cape Cod Jewelers in Hyannis (366 Main St., Hyannis; 508-771-7190; capecodjewelers.com). For stoneware inspired by the beauty of the Cape, head to Chatham Pottery. Of note are a large selection of chowder mugs, some with in-glaze cod, crab and scallop decals, others with whale tale handles (2058 Main St., Chatham; 508-430-2191; chathampottery.com).  Fete Among the Flowers, is stocked with tableware, fragrances and candles, kitchen accessories, variety of cheese and caviar and flowers (13 Wianno Ave., Osterville; 774-228-2103; fete.shop).

GRAB A BITE

Feasting on whole belly clams at a waterside seafood shack is a highlight of a Cape Cod getaway. Enjoy clams and sunsets over Falmouth Harbor at Jim’s Clam Shack (227 Clinton Ave., Falmouth; 508-540-7758). A bit more elevated, The Pheasant in nearby Dennis serves wild caught, seasonal and locally sourced seafood in a cozy, candlelit farmhouse (905 Rte. 6A, Dennis; pheasantcapecod.com).

NIGHTLIFE

These serene Massachusetts vacation spots don’t necessarily roll up their sidewalks after dark. Notable nightlife options on Cape Cod include A-House, Provincetown’s historic gay bar and dance club that offers live music, trivia nights and karaoke (6 Masonic Pl. #4, Provincetown; 508-487-3169; ahouse.com), and Liam McGuire’s Irish Pub (273 Main St., Falmouth; 508-548-0285; liammaguire.com) in Falmouth, which hosts karaoke and trivia nights during the week and live music on weekends.

WHERE TO STAY 

For old New England charm and history, make the centrally located Chapter House in Yarmouth Port your base. This historic mansion and carriage house features a deluxe 21-room hotel. The bespoke cocktail program focuses on classic pre-prohibition cocktails along with fresh takes. Rooms start at $352 per night (277 MA-6A, Yarmouth Port; 508-362-4348; chapterhousecapecod.com). 

NANTUCKET

You can bring your car to Nantucket, but there’s no better way to explore it than by bike. Rent one — conventional or electric if you need a boost at Cook’s Cycles (cruises bike rentals are $39.95 for the day; electric bikes $99.95 for the day; 6 South Beach St., Nantucket; 508-228-0800; cookscyclesnantucket.com).  Then follow 35 miles of side paths to discover the island’s many attractions (nantucket-ma.gov).

Learn about Nantucket island's history at the award-winning Nantucket Whaling Museum (13 Broad St., Nantucket; 508-228-1894; NHA.org), whose holdings include a 46-foot sperm whale skeleton, restored 1847 candle factory and one of the world’s largest scrimshaw collections, as well as new rotating featured exhibitions each season.

Explore the island’s history as an art colony at Greater Light (8 Howard St., Nantucket, Massachusetts; NHA.org), a former livestock barn built in 1790 and transformed into an artist’s studio and magical summer home by sisters Gertrude and Hanna Monaghan, who adorned the space with decorative objects, castoff architectural elements and handmade furniture during the '30s and '40s. Free to all visit during the summer season. 

On foot, traverse the Sconset Bluff Walk, a 2-mile out-and-back public trail that begins in the village of Siasconset at the end of Front Street. Photo opportunities — of clapboard cottages, the red and white striped Sankaty Head Lighthouse and the crashing Atlantic abound.

Another fascinating walk is the Black Heritage Trail, consisting of 10 stops of importance in the history of African Americans on the island. Download the map and guide at maah.org to locate and learn about the Historic Coloured Cemetery, the African Meeting House and Sherburne House, the hotel where Frederick Douglass stayed during his final visit to Nantucket.

WHERE TO SHOP

The Brown Basket Gallery displays the work of Gerald L. Brown, who has been making heirloom-quality Nantucket lightship baskets for over 50  years (9 Old South Wharf Rd., Nantucket; 508-228-9344, glbrownnatucketbaskets.com). Erica Wilson founded her eponymous boutique  over 60 years ago to showcase her needlework designs. Today it is run by her daughter Vanessa and granddaughters, and still sells Wilson’s original canvases. Also not to be missed is the curated selection of needlepoint and chic clothing, shoes and jewelry for men, women and kids (25 Main St., Nantucket; 508-228-9881; ericawilson.com). 

NIGHTLIFE

Choices for a late-night out include The Chickenbox (16 Dave St., Nantucket; 508-228-9717; thechickenbox.com), a roadhouse-type establishment with live music and dancing. 

WHERE TO STAY 

Travel 10 miles from the center of Nantucket town to Wauwinet, a full-service oceanfront resort with private bay and ocean beaches, paddleboards and kayaks, complimentary bikes, and shuttle service to town and ferry. There are rooms, suites and stand-alone cottages with private outdoor space. Its restaurant, Topper’s, is an island favorite and boasts a 2,000-bottle wine cellar. Rooms start at $795 (120 Wauwinet Rd., Nantucket; 508-228-0145; wauwinet.com).  

MARTHA'S VINEYARD

The five lighthouses on Martha’s Vineyard collectively tell the story of the island’s maritime past. The Edgartown Lighthouse (121 N. Water St., Edgartown; mvmuseum.org) is a 10-minute walk from the center of town.

While in Oak Bluffs, take some time to admire the town’s famous gingerbread cottages, which were originally part of a 19th century Methodist campground and today are among the most coveted homes on the island. Walking tours are offered in July and August on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 a.m. and includes admission to the MVCMA Museum ($15) and benefits the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association. Private tours are available by appointment May through October. (80 Trinity Park, Oak Bluffs, Massachusetts; 508-693-0525; mvcma.org).

Movie buffs visiting the Vineyard won’t want to miss the American Legion Bridge, known as the Jaws Bridge (267-125 Seaview Ave., Edgartown, Massachusetts) because it was used as a location in Steven Spielberg’s Vineyard-based summer blockbuster. 
Don’t let memories of the film scare you out of the water. Take a two-hour private sail ($600 for up to six passengers) from Edgartown Harbor on a traditional catboat with Catboat Charters (1 Dock St., Edgartown; 508-524-6903; catboatcharters.com). Or join a larger group for a two-hour sail ($100-$130) on the smooth and stable Mad Max Sailing Adventures (25 Dock St., Edgartown; 508-627-7500; madmaxmarina.com) catamaran. Both that provides views of lighthouses, beaches and historic homes.

WHERE TO SHOP

Purchase a black dog-branded sweatshirt (or cap or travel tote or key chain) at the original Martha’s Vineyard location of The Black Dog Tavern (20 Beach Street Extension, Vineyard Haven; 508-693-9223; theblackdog.com).

NIGHTLIFE

The Ritz (4 Circuit Ave., Oak Bluffs; 508-693-9851; theritzmv.com) is Martha’s Vineyard’s historic dive bar and music venue. Back Door Donuts (1-11 Kennebec Ave., Oak Bluffs; 508-693-3688; backdoordonuts.com) continues its decades-long commitment to serving mammoth apple fritters and other treats to hungry partyers from 7 p.m. to midnight out of its back door.

WHERE TO STAY

In continuous operation since 1879, Summercamp in Oak Bluffs was renovated by the Lark Group in 2016 and now features 95 retro-chic rooms with plush mattresses, waffle robes and Bluetooth radios. Porches and balconies offer views of sailboats, a Camp Canteen stocks classic snacks like Cracker Jack and a game room features a Ping-Pong table, Twister and other classic games. Rooms start at $495 per night (70 Lake Ave., Martha’s Vineyard; 508-693-6611; larkhotels.com).  

The historic Hob Knob Inn, in the middle of the action in Edgartown, has been welcoming guests for decades. The 19th century Gothic Revival building contains 17 rooms and suites, some of them designated as pet-friendly, all smartly decorated in New England nautical style. Farm-to-table breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the room rate. Beach cruiser bicycles, a wraparound porch with rocking chairs and an on-site fitness room. Rooms start at $659 (128 Main St., Edgartown; 508-627-9510, hobknob.com).