Chinese restaurant Xiao Si Chuan opens in Setauket

The ever-growing quotient of authentic Chinese food around Stony Brook University has swelled again with the debut of Xiao Si Chuan along Route 25A.

Owner Xiao Fei Nie, who is from Beijing, opened the comfy 28-seat restaurant in the space where East Coast Burrito Co. used to be. The kitchen is firing a range of regional dishes from around China, with a focus on Sichuan specialties. Mapo tofu ($11) and dandan noodles ($8.50) make appearances, as do dumplings ($6.50), tofu puddings topped with fish, beef or pig intestines ($14-$17), dry pots ($19-$29), a smoldering cumin lamb ($17) and sides such as braised romaine with garlic ($6.50).

Fans of Americanized Chinese food can find lo mein ($13-$16) and fried rice ($12-$15), and more adventurous eaters can take a chance on more mysterious dishes (at least in translation) like handmade shrimp slip.

Nie has also outfitted the tables with inlaid skillets for simmering hot pots of spicy house soup that can be loaded with a la carte meat, seafood, vegetables, mushrooms and noodles.

“We are still preparing the soup,” said Nie, explaining that the hot pots are not yet available because the deeply flavored base broths take time to finesse. “We will have them soon.”

Xiao Si Chuan is open Monday to Thursday from 10:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Xiao Si Chuan, 736 Route 25A, Setauket. 631-364-9679.