Bartaco opens at Roosevelt Field in Uniondale
Bartaco has opened at Roosevelt Field, the shopping mall in Uniondale. Credit: Newsday/Andi Berlin
The sleek new bartaco in the Roosevelt Field mall looks more like the Hamptons than a Mexican restaurant. But perhaps this is part of its charm? Formerly Osteria Morini, the 5,000-square-foot space is now a bright and buzzy taqueria. Albeit a corporate one, which despite serving tacos, does not perform any illusions of Mexican-ness. And yet, it's a beautiful room to sit in and drink a margarita.
The chain started in 2010 in the Westchester County village of Port Chester. The waterside spot was acquired in 2019 by private equity firm L Catterton, and now the bartaco brand sports locations in 14 states mostly along the East Coast. A month after opening, the place seems to be running on all cylinders. During a recent lunch visit, the number of staffers outnumbered customers, giving the feeling of a well-run machine.
Bartaco's green margarita has freshly-squeezed juice. Credit: Newsday/Andi Berlin
The tacos aren't bad, but most people are probably coming here for the vibe and the stellar drinks, served from a beautiful wood bar that dominates the dining room. Bartaco's green margarita ($13.95) might just be the drink of the summer. The bright green concoction looks like something you'd get from a juice bar, but more fun. The backbone of the drink is a fresh juice blend of pineapple, mango and spinach. The drink is light on the tequila and not too heavy on the lime either. It basically tastes like you're sipping fresh juice.
The food menu flirts with fusion, with a dozen tacos stuffed with everything from ahi tuna, roasted duck to "chicken verde" and a Baja fish taco ($2.95-$4.95 each). You'll probably want to double up on your order, because the tacos are on the petite side. I got through six tacos with no problem. The mushroom taco is a winner with sautéed wild mushrooms and a light roasted poblano salsa. Another hot tip: Get some black beans on the side ($3.75). They're surprisingly delicious and savory, and were even better the next day (even without the margarita).
Bartaco, 630 Old Country Rd., Suite 1039G at Roosevelt Field in Uniondale, 516-716-8226, bartaco.com. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and Sunday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Andi Berlin is from Arizona and does not know where she is going. But when she gets there, she’ll find something beautiful and delicious that the world needs to taste.
