Kyma review

The wave of Greek restaurants on Long Island crests in Roslyn. The newest to reach shore is Kyma.

Kyma washes over the address recently occupied by Trata Estiatorio, remembered for the stellar cooking of Luis Falcon. Now, Kyma has turned mostly to sandy hues, stucco and a rush of whiteness brighter than a postcard from Santorini. Banquettes and tables long and square fit snugly in the invariably full dining room. Nightlong, the noise level is as high as the Acropolis.

The emphasis is seafood. As at Trata and at Kyma's pricier nearby competitor, Limani, a display of fish and shellfish on ice is a glistening focal point. Chef Chris Kletsides and Reno Christou, an operating partner, are both veterans of Limani. They know the theme.

Very tender grilled octopus is an exceptional opener, dotted with capers, finished with olive oil and vinegar. Calamari, stuffed with Greek cheeses; and shrimp saganaki, in a savory stew of tomatoes, herbs and mature feta, also stand out.

"Kyma chips" are a tasty little turret of fried eggplant and zucchini with tzatziki, or yogurt sauce. Likewise, round zucchini fritters with a tzatziki dip, giant braised lima beans in tomato sauce, and delicious roasted beets with skordalia, the garlic-potato spread. Skordalia stars in an appetizer of spreads, which includes eggplant, roe and feta and peppers, all ideal with the house's fine breads.

Grilled haloumi cheese, with a mustard vinaigrette; and spanakopita, the phyllo-encased spinach-feta combo, are satisfying but trail other starters. Blond fish broth, with vegetables and cuts of grouper, is a mild, warming alternative.

Chef Kletsides really gets going with char-grilled whole fish. Fagri, firm and flavorful, frequently is dubbed pink snapper or red porgy. But it's a distinctive delight. So is the mild tsipoura, or royal dorado. Marinated, skewered cuts of moist, tasty swordfish, with onions, peppers and tomato: equally recommended. Sweet, delicate langoustines, and king-size, smoky tiger shrimp are excellent.

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If you're not set for seafood, there's a good baked lamb shank with orzo and tomato sauce; a chunky, meaty moussaka; and roasted chicken spiked with oregano, served with lemony potatoes, On the side, try the union of broccoli rabe and feta.

Desserts are on a par with what comes before. Favorites are walnut cake; ekmek kataifi, a shredded phyllo pastry with cream and pistachios; and house-made Greek yogurt with honey, black-cherry preserves and nuts. By now, you can imagine Roslyn Pond turning Aegean blue.